+1 on the Garmin Radar -- I pair it w/ my hammerhead. No issues.

I usually don't use it in the city (there is always a car behind), altho you can always mute the computer beep if you wanna use it all the time.

another +1 for the Varia.

I have this light but when I bought it it came with a quarter turn mount rather than the go pro mount (it may actually have both but I lost the box long ago). It's relatively inexpensive and gets the job done 

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Quick-Release-Waterproof-Headlight-Mountain/dp/B09Z2GFLGS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1324OK7DS86V5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.lLKioGruBQR3w5ynfpczHVBDuK0wm5RXwbCnpOeiVqo3usqbl9MfJq0aJBzGdInoKeTbbaucPlo38UuK7lb1ZBlJ_SRgQdzKOwuNUrctOOmfysLGwgiyBUwYwmC2XiagIIRWuj3TwFQ0YeIVXC6eoJhe-fMSx7ZON-KmEEdMvGreCOybcoc-zCB2zointEsLzqnvfaMEVfGZ-fNaRxQbsCNixxFlAefm5eIMS_ONtxUfKodvv-wMTdaQTxGfWO0KBYBZGJL16qyXfKzkPL6o4-uL_ZvWkTUuH0pDeLmqJrk.QlEIUHtoZuzGb5KZOZmp3GvdO-kBiI281ZGxa6lTST0&dib_tag=se&keywords=bike%2Blight%2Bgarmin%2Bmount&qid=1743799183&sprefix=bike%2Blight%2Bgarmin%2Bmoun%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-4&th=1

I use an out front  bike computer mount that has the GoPro mount underneath. I then use a front light that has a top mount attachment to screw into that mount. It Involves a little more set up than strap on lights, but it’s a lot more firm and secure.

I use a Hammerhead computer and I’m currently considering getting a rear seat Garmin mount to put it into for track racing. You can’t have a computer in view for track racing, but you can mount it on your saddle.

I've been doing quite a bit of reporting on the tariffs stuff the last few weeks. One thing that is being underreported, is that there's a big chance that the world might be heading for supply chain problems comparable to covid times. Stuff is going to get more expensive for sure, but there's also the risk that things will simply run out in the US.

We've seen what that did for bikes and bike parts last time. I've personally just stocked up on new chains, a cassette and tubes. Might be something to consider - worst case it means you'll just have extra reserve parts. 

I might have been reading more than others but that seems pretty certain at this point. Don't forget brake pads!

Still super tough to beat a couple of C02 canisters in your saddle bag...

https://youtu.be/YSebat-v-48?si=MzTzGhy9a-F_pe-c

Compact saddle/seat bag suggestions?

This one from Silca is great and looks pretty slick too. You can fit a couple of canisters, a spare inner tube and a small tool set.

I’ve got this one and love it. Definitely compact. I fit: 2x CO2, pedros tire levers, co2 nozzle, tpu tube, quick links, coin cell battery, crank bros multi tool, and a spare derailleur hanger. 

I also have the above Ornot bag and love it so far!

I haven’t tried the orbit bag, but have the Silca bag and am a big fan

I have the small for road , medium for gravel 

https://www.velocolour.com/shop/bags---saddle-bags-rolls

Canadian🇨🇦

What are you carrying for gravel that you aren't carrying for road?

The road case is very small , so for gravel I need a larger tube +2 co2 , 

Chris McGovern, makes these saddle 'Seeker' bags. I have two one for my cross bike and one for my road bike (both low volume) --

https://www.seekeradventuregear.com/gear-and-accessories/p/seeker-saddle-bags-ssemp 



Chris McGovern is, of course, a top US cyclocross coach, and manages/runs the Cervelo Orange Living Cyclocross team. The story of seeker is kinda cool too, he simply made one bag for himself, one of his athletes saw it, so ask him to make another, and then someone else saw that one, and now it's a literal small company. I think he still hand makes every order. It's kinda cool to support that. 

In my decades of riding, and decades of saddle bags, these are the best I've had, by far. Likely, because McGovern rides similar to the kinda of riding I do. 

You might need to define compact, tho, even the "low volume" is relatively big compared to others, but part of the grace is that you can make it smaller up to a point. It's a roll bag, with a monster velcro strap.

I would suggest against the Silca BOA bags mentioned above, I thought they were great, but they lasted about one season (I presume if you ride only road, maybe longer, and similarly, I'd assume recent iterations are better) Thanks to Silca some of my multi tools are still waiting in the Cunningham trails and Farmer's Daugther roads. 

#ymwv

https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/1624-ELEMENTA-GEARBAG-EX

I bought one of these guys from topeak late last year and have been really happy with it. It comes with a small ratchet and bits that are separate from the rest so you can fit a couple of tpu tubes, CO2 and other small items, and crucially if you need your multitool you don't need to disassemble your whole bag searching for it. The rail wing system for attaching it is also pretty clever and super secure.

They make a few iterations (one without the tool in a couple of sizes and one with the tool in the main compartment)

I've lost track of how many bags I've lost but it's getting more irritating every time it happens.
Definitely appreciate the feedback.

I use this for road and gravel.

https://www.morimono.jp/product-page/copy-of-tpu-nano-bag-black-dyneema-22g

It is designed around using TPU tubes, but otherwise it's nice and small.  I typically carry a multi tool, tire levers, 1-2 road tubes (or 1 gravel tube), and a dynaplug.  I get my air from a frame pump but you could totally swap the dynaplug plug for a CO2.

I swear there used to be a "what's in your bag" thread but I can't seem to find it.
(@mugwump has a secret power of finding these things)

Mine is:

• 2 co2 cartridges & 1 inflator
• tire levers with master chain ink (Wolf Brand)
• Spare power meter batter (because obsessive)
• multi tool
• old fashioned tube & glue patch kit

I ride with an old lyzene mini frame pump.

When I get home I'll revisit the whole setup. @David Yang once showed me how he fits an emergency Snacking Donut into his bar ends but I've never been able to make it work.

Words cannot express my frustration with modern bikes (rim brakes & tubeless). Changed my break pads today on my gravel bike; would be five minutes max with rim brakes, but not today.

Wheel off, removing then reapplying the weensy c-clip back in, then SQUEAK-pocalypse. Remove wheels, push pistons in with tire lever (were they even out to being with?) then one wheel is good and the other still squeaks.

Sweety Baby Jesus in a Rapha Skinsuit, do I need to realign the entire brake every time I change the pads?

#iwantmymtvoldbiketech

You shouldn’t have to.

This suggests that possibly maybe something moved, the caliper or the disc.

But before you readjust and recheck it all:

I do find often when putting on new pads, and then go thru a bedding process, they might make a bit of noise for a few minutes on first ride and then eventually settle back to quiet — I’d imagine it’s because enough and a miniscule portion of the pad gets worn

Yeah. Apparently there are videos on the bedding process. Excuse me while I go shout at a cloud.

Bedding process: In a road that's safe to do so, go ride the bike at a slow(ish) speed and hit the brake 5 times, then moving slightly faster hit the brake 5 more times or so.

You will usually be able to feel the difference when the brakes start to better bite. 

The idea is that the you want that shift in brake power and bite to happen in a controlled way. If you are replacing the pad with the same or similar brand/type, that shift might be less noticeable, but you still want to do it -- you want some of the pad to wear off into the disc. 

The videos I watched said 20 times at low speed then 10 at high speed then let the rotors cool; all to “coat” the rotors with brake material; which is bizarre because it implies all my riding and braking previously did not coat the rotors…

FWIW, I've never had to bed in new pads if I'm not changing rotors.  Bedding in should be more for the rotor than the pad.

Jules said:

Words cannot express my frustration with modern bikes (rim brakes & tubeless). Changed my break pads today on my gravel bike; would be five minutes max with rim brakes, but not today.

Maybe I can merge two things here.  Tubeless and mobile repair kits.

A few things to note from yesterday's ride where we saw multiple flats heading through Westchester:

• Blake had brand new rear gp5kII tire (30? 32?mm) that had a cut on the tread 1-1.5cm wide. It looked like someone cut into it at a bias angle with a sushi knife. Blake used two dynaplugs and the Orange Seal did the rest and the tire held air. Nice. (Note to self: get Dynaplugs.)
• Greg also got a flat on a TPU tube - hole was the size of a pinprick. A spare TPU tube in the saddle bag bonded/stuck to itself and trying to tease it apart would have torn it.
• I patched Greg's original punctured butyl tube with a Park Tool stick on patch, but was too hasty and did not sand down the seam where the hole was (the seam split which created the 2-3mm hole, common with butyl tubes IME). It first held air okay but eventually gave out and the talc powder in the tire forced itself under the patch along said seam which created the second flat.
• Bike shops guys are not always knowledgeable. Greg asked for tubes that would accommodate up to 28mm tires and the clerk gave him what looked to be skinny tubes (up to 23mm) and insisted the "28"" on the box was the indicator when it was clearly calling out the imperial spec equivalent to 700c.
• Greg used my spare latex tube without issue.

My own protocols to be prepared for flats:

• Always have a hand pump. Have large CO2 (20g?) JIC for bead seating and/or for faster air when standing around in cold/inclement weather.
• Always have tire levers you know will work on the tire/wheel combo I'm running that day/ride.
• If tubeless: Make sure there is enough sealant. Carry tire plugs, one tube in sandwich bag, patch kit and extra presta valves.
• If tubes: One tube in sandwich bag, patch kit (make sure there are at least two patches remaining). 
• At least one dollar bill or a piece of cutting from old paper race number (Tyvek) to boot a tire.
• Phone with battery and Uber app.
• Hopes and prayers

The tube in a sandwich bag thing feels like I'm providing some barrier between it and tools/supplies I jam into the saddle bag. In reality, who knows?

Thanks for the save on Saturday guys.  I think it's time for some new tires for me...

Re: sandwich bag: I've also head of wrapping with saran wrap.

Also, I'm looking for a full frame pump to replace my old tefal one.  Any suggestions?

Jules said:

Words cannot express my frustration with modern bikes (rim brakes & tubeless). Changed my break pads today on my gravel bike; would be five minutes max with rim brakes, but not today.

Wheel off, removing then reapplying the weensy c-clip back in, then SQUEAK-pocalypse. Remove wheels, push pistons in with tire lever (were they even out to being with?) then one wheel is good and the other still squeaks.

Sweety Baby Jesus in a Rapha Skinsuit, do I need to realign the entire brake every time I change the pads?

#iwantmymtvoldbiketech

I love rim brakes for their mechanical simplicity, but sometimes they can be a giant pain in the ass too. If you have different width rims on race and training wheels you run the risk that the pads will not align with the skinny rim face and if there is a wide delta between multiple sets, the skinny rims may have an issue with the pads making contact with the tire which is very, very bad. This was an issue when I switched to Hed wheelset which were 23 or 24mm and my older sets were 19 or 20mm.

Admittedly not often, but when adjusting the pads to the rim, the torque from clamping down on the shoes will skew the alignment so you need to know the amount of millimeters to compensate for. And if you want proper toe-in, you need to add in something like a business card in which case the pads slip more easily when torquing down. Finally if you try to clamp down tightly on the brakes so they don't move while you torque things down, the rubber blocks deform and may not be aligned the way you thought they were.

And if you're running a mix of carbon and alloy rims you have to swap pads every time.

I know this is not a good take, but I kind of love the half-assed TRP cable actuated disc brakes I have on my cross bike (combined with compressionless housing - I use Yokozuna). If you have differently dished wheels, you can add in a shim (for center lock discs at least) and adjust the pads to split the difference. Stopping power is at least on par with good rim brakes if not better, especially in the wet. Finally they're extremely easy to service - zero need for fluids and bleed kits etc.

tl;dr
RIP rim brakes.

Agreed 100% on the rim brake issues; but they all pale in comparison to disks IMHO. the 23-28 mm rim switch reminds me of a funny Paul Carbonara story; he took a too-skinny neural rim at Bear Mountain and ended up in the shrubbery at the bottom of a hill.

As for flats; I think I've said this before but I trained and raced on Gatorskins for more than a decade. Never.got.a.single.flat. I'm sure this will give the rolling-resistance folks fits, but...

My only racing flats were when running tubulars.

My experience since then with tubeless has been a never ending litany of slow leaks, flats, and (most recently) rim tape that exploded (?) while my bike sat in the garage - due apparently to faulty installation at the shop.