Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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Anyone know a good .fit repair tool for mac?  I've been using - http://garmin.kiesewetter.nl/ - but it stopped working

I dont know what happened but it seems like every recent ride I do either ends up with a corrupted file or huge data loss.


2012 Quarq Red CX Chainring issue:

Just got off the phone with several dealers/manufacturers.  Here is the scoop:

Yes, all the SRAM 2012 chainrings have an embedded (Knurled?) chainring bolt that sits behind the drive-side crank arm of the Quark.  Nothing is small enough to fit in there to "catch" a normal (or shimano) bolt otherwise.

QBP doesn't have any good timelines and SRAM said it could be "a couple of months" before any cross chain-rings are seen on the market.

Quark is responsible for manufacturing them, and apparently their hair is starting to stand on end realizing they can't make 'em fast enough.

I have a line in to Quarq to hopefully get my hands on one, but be forewarned; 2012 power-to-the-cross field is not looking good on the Quaq side.
I'll use my legs for power thank you...
I prefer leptons if I'm going sub atomic
Leptons?  Can we get those in powder form yet?
I have a new pair of (aluminum, clincher) wheels I am about to put the rim tape\tubes\and tires on.

I peeled off various stickers from inside the rim. I read to clean it up with rubbing alcohol before I put the rim tape in.

Will hydrogen peroxide work in a pinch or do I risk damaging the wheel ? 
It will melt the wheel right off, which may cost you a few watts.

[no]
I googled it and saw hydrogen peroxide was less serious stuff anyway. Fail on my part for not recalling any hs chemistry.

BIGGER FAIL - starting a tech project friday night before a race.
My cassette is moved over to the new wheel - but I cant get the tire on. Anyone know to get a stubborn tire on ?
I am installing Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX  - race clincher tires - step 1 is "get the first bead inside the well of the rim" ...and of course I cannot. It feels "just" short enough. 

I was like "nahh, shop man, I can install the tires, please just move my cassette over".... ARGHH

Josh,
The old school thing to do with tubulars was put the tire under your toes, crouch down, loop the tire over your shoulders and try to stand up.  Got a little stretch.

With stubborn clinchers, I typically take the tube out, get the tires on the rim, which stretches them a little, use a strong lever to get them off and then they're typically stretched enough to install.
Hydrogen peroxide will not do anything to clean your tire. It is water based and you would be better off with soap and water. A strong organic solvent like hexane (gasoline) or acetone would melt any plastic bits or glue on your wheels. Alcohol (ethanol, methanol, isopropyl alcohol) is intermediate. It will take off grease but not attack any of the materials and evaporates quickly.

And for wounds, alcohol works wonderfully but stings like crazy due to dehydration of the tissues (same as it stings back of your throat at  high concentrations). Hydrogen peroxide does not sting so much, but cleans the wound by oxidizing all the little critters that are trying to give you an infection. Use hydrogen peroxide for cleaning wounds.

Oh, and I have lots of leptons I can give you.
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anyone know what to use to get sealant out of a valve core? I can get some air through it, but clearly the passage has stuff in it.

it's vittoria's pit stop - which by the way didn't do it for me today.
An interesting article about the secret squirrel bikes that the brits get to ride:

http://bicycling.com/blogs/boulderreport/2012/07/27/britains-mysterious-olympic-bikes/
craig,
     If you can get the core off the bike, you can soak it in warm water and that should loosen up the dried latex.  If it's stuck on the bike, use pliers to hold the valve tube and an adjustable wrench on the flats of the core.  Once it's out, I guess you can use a straightened paper clip to clear the valve tube.
I seem to remember that latex is soluble in ammonia
I'll try the warm water first and then go to ammonia if that doesn't clear it. It's a core rather than extender and has the screw doohickey to close it up so a paper clip won't work.
Freehub/pawl question.

So, on my Kysriums they recommend Mavic Mineral Oil, which seems to be a light gauge but costs like $30 for a tiny bottle.  They also recommend Pedro's Road Rage, which isn't made anymore.  Looking around online forums, there are a 100 different suggestions.

What do you guys like? 
I use baby oil! This is mineral oil and smells nicer than the stuff sold by Mavic.
I might also recommend triflow and I have used sewing machine oil in the past. Basically, you want a very light oil that doesn't gunk things up. I think I heard someone (maybe Ragot) mention prolink, but this doesn't make sense to me because it is a dry lube (supposed to evaporate and leave a coating).

I've used TriFlow, but I'm liking the baby oil (aka mineral oil) suggestion.  
Cool thanks.  Yeah, a lot of people say the sewing machine oil b/c it's a lighter weight than the baby oil. 

Cool thanks.  Yeah, a lot of people say the sewing machine oil b/c it's a lighter weight than the baby oil. 

Random question - hoping @KimW or @Lisa (aka Mrs Jules) might have suggestions - My wife is looking to purchase some bibs - the shorts aren't comfortable for her on longer rides - and of course I'm helping. Have you any experience with the women's bibs that have a drop tail type feature? Hincapie, Gore & PI have models that make it easier to use the restroom. Any other suggestions (drop tail or not)?
Looking into trying some new training tires that are race-worthy and durable enough for the coming winter.  Always used Conti 4-seasons and liked them, but thinking maybe the Vittoria Rubinos might work as well.  $20 cheaper a piece and about the same weight.

Bad weather puncture resistant enough?
Schwalbe Durano are tough, but ride well. Maxxis ReFuse seem to be indestructable, but they are not supple.
Yeah, that's the problem I have with the Gatorskins: pretty harsh.  The 4-seasons ride much better, but of course cost a bit more.  Thanks.
I've had good luck with the 25mm Kenda Dalcon-K Shield's. Decent ride quality 1200km's, 1 flat from huge nail.
I have used Rubinos with great success..
Being a cheapskate, this year I bought Zafiros, which are a little heavier I think (but cheaper). I am still riding them without complaint.


@Vlad. I want your bar ends, but will be out of town this weekend.
I second that one with David with the Rubinos, my only complaint is that they don't corner well on wet surfaces.
I like the kryllion carbons by Michelin
Vittoria Rubino Pros and Michelin Lithions  Liking both.

If you have issues with wet-weather traction, drop your tire pressure.

Looking into trying some new training tires that are race-worthy and durable enough for the coming winter.  Always used Conti 4-seasons and liked them, but thinking maybe the Vittoria Rubinos might work as well.  $20 cheaper a piece and about the same weight.

Bad weather puncture resistant enough?

 

I like the normal Grand Prix (non 4000/non S). More or less same black chili compound as the gp4000, but on a lower tpi casing.

Vittoria Rubino!