I've been running tubeless for about 4 years, maybe a little more.  Everything Niel said is spot on.  I would also emphasize ride quality:  by far they best ride I've experienced, including vs. the tubies I've ridden.  There's also the supposedly lower rolling resistance, however that is quantified.  And re JP's tire pressure point, there's a world of difference between the way tubeless feels at 90 psi and the way a clincher feels at the same pressure.  Another point worth considering is the recent expansion of choices - Hutchinson used to be the only choice, but there are several brands in the game these days.  I might try out the Maxis option next time.

Joaquin said:

 And re JP's tire pressure point, there's a world of difference between the way tubeless feels at 90 psi and the way a clincher feels at the same pressure.  

I'm curious about this.  Do you think it has something to do with the suppleness, or lack thereof, of the respective tires?  If you go to my article, there should be a link to Al Morrison's tire tests.  Morrison has been running tire Crr tests for years.  He doesn't think that tubeless rolls as easily, and he puts it on butyl-lined tire casings.  

Trying to swap out my brakes without changing the cables.  The metal "ferrule" (sp?) seems a little wide for the shimano brake - force it or take it off or...?

Don't force it. You may have trouble removing it later. You can live without it. I doubt that the cable is making any sharp angles as it comes into the brake.

The ferrule came of with just fingers and the cable itself fit perfectly.  In other news, anyone need a used red gruppo?

Recently added to my seemingly never-ending Bike Stuff I Want Need list is some kind of power-measurement device.  I am not really in the market or at a level where I can justify $2500+ on Quarq or SRM kit, but am interested in the the Powertap line.

The wheelset on my Tarmac (Roval Fusee SL) is decent enough for me for most occasions and given that the wheels are relatively new, I am not in a hurry to swap them out.  So my questions are: 1) could I buy a PT hub and swap out the existing SL hub (presuming the spoke-count matches)?  And 2) If I could do the swap, do you think somewhere like Ride could do the build, or would I have to send it to some kind of specialist?

@Mark Clifford,

you *can* do it, but like at-home surgery, or truck stop sushi, why would you want to?

You can get a pre-built powertap wheel with a Mavic OpenPro or a wheel built up with a variety of awesome rims, for the same price or less than getting your old rim onto a new powertap hub. The only way it would save you money would be if you rebuilt the wheel yourself and unless you really like to learn how to build wheels and are ready to take on that challenge I would not recommend it.

Don't worry nobody in the club will shun you if you sport competely different wheels on the front and rear. Note the Ritchey front HED rear combo.

http://www.oneimagingphotography.com/Cycling/LucarelliCupRace77/Cat-4-Lucarelli77/i-kPdPh2k/1/M/8O2T1129 copy-M.jpg

@Mark Clifford,

Thanks JP, Dan.  Lots to consider here.

I aksed my wife whether she'd buy me one for Valentine's Day.  Needless to say Feb 14 is not the day I will be receiving a power-meter.

Wouldn't it be nice for the club to invest in a couple of these... we could have one group on the fast group ride rollers, another on a recovery ride --what a wonderful self-adjusting No-Drop policy enforcer. And imagine the handling skills we would develop. Of course, it would be prudent to ensure a team physician be on-hand at each ride.

the Riken looks good.  Not sure how the Stages $700 meter is working out..D.C. rainmaker rained crap all over it.... But here is a nice gateway drug that will set you back $100 bucks.

Lake Shoes- A week or so back there was some discussion of Lake Shoes.  Colrado cyclict is selling the CX236C (both the three hole and the Speedplay version) at $159 (normally$ 229) in case there's any interest.

then there is this:

u.s. pricing, excluding crank....

Not sure if this is the right thread for this or if i'm rehashing, but here goes... has anyone had any experience with recycling carbon frames/parts? I ask because i have a carbon fork that i've replaced due to my confidence in it diminishing after crashing it multiple times.

so it's just sitting in my closet now and the space it takes up isn't a major deal but I am just curious about how anyone deals with carbon fiber waste.

-Ed

I've discovered quite a bit of play in my PowerTap hub, about 5mm each way. last time I rebuilt a hub was a bit a go, and I wonder if there is anything that I should worry about in getting the bearings snugged up and removing the play? 

I'm pretty sure if Kid can't help you...Play can.

Hey guys,

I went to check in with Jon Blyer @ Acme bike company to get fit on my new cross bike (opps, a little late).

He has this new machine.



It is pretty amazing. With the click of his wireless mouse, he can micro adjust everything: your saddle height, handlebar reach, etc.

While you can do this with a serota size cycle or other machines, this mechanical beast allows for a really quick way to test out hundreds of possibilities in fit. Very cool stuff.

I ended up choosing a new saddle and actually moving down one spacer in the front. We noticed a few quirks in my sitting (I'm sitting wayyyy far back - I think it's a trainer thing)

Jon combines this with the Retul machine to get a really great analysis of your position.

Also confirmed - my core is crazy weak right now. Gotta work on that.

Check it out:

http://www.acmebicycleco.com/

that is the place I would go if I had the time...I sat on the same machine at Brickwell for my fit.  It was really a stop gap fit as it only took an hour and the fitter did not really look at my foot placement or factor in my flexibility.  I think the benefit of the machine alone is that it can quickly put you where you "theoretically" should be. My seat went way up and waay back on the rails.  If you can adapt to an extreme change in fit quickly, leave it be once your fit is dialed.  But a more comfortable way to do it is to mark your post and saddle, write down your numbers and slowly work your way into the fit.  Move things a centimeter at a time.

twoyacks said:

that is the place I would go if I had the time...I sat on the same machine at Brickwell for my fit.  It was really a stop gap fit as it only took an hour and the fitter did not really look at my foot placement or factor in my flexibility.  I think the benefit of the machine alone is that it can quickly put you where you "theoretically" should be. My seat went way up and waay back on the rails.  If you can adapt to an extreme change in fit quickly, leave it be once your fit is dialed.  But a more comfortable way to do it is to mark your post and saddle, write down your numbers and slowly work your way into the fit.  Move things a centimeter at a time.

A fit is waay more important than a power meter or carbon tubs.  I was so fixated on the computrainer this winter that I ignored some fit issues, overloaded my knee and now I can't ride hard without knee pain.  

my knees often hurt.  perhaps i should invest in a fit.  sigh.

I'm never going to discourage anyone from getting a professional fitting done. It makes sense on every level. However, let's also be mindful of other causes of knee pain. Common amongst cyclists is too much work, too soon. Overuse injuries.

Also, consider generalized weakness in muscles not commonly used when cycling, which create imbalances and force other parts to work too hard to keep everything in line and rocking along comfortably.

@brendan
You've got Speedplays correct? Have you adjusted the float on your cleats?

I ride x2's with 100% float. Too many 4 hour rides this winter, too many hills too many intervals cadence too low not enough stretching etc. I bought a foam roller to stretch my it bands. I can do dumbbell squats without pain and rollers at 100 cadence. I think I can train around the injury. If not I will work on strengthening the rest of my body and focus on my sprint. Worst case I drop a nasty lead out at the end of the race.

$600 british pounds?  I little pricey for something that might break if you look at wrong.  CLEARLY you would be better served (pun intended) with a little something like THIS !!!

Got a Wilier Izoard XP?  Your fork might be involved in a recall: http://www.wilier-usa.com/en/important-advisory-for-all-izoard-xp-owners/

Harkening back to the 26er v. 29er MTB debate.....here's a new (subjective) lap-by-lap comparison  of the wheel sizes during a 24 hour race.  YMMV

http://reviews.mtbr.com/26er-or-29er-which-was-faster-at-the-24-hours-in-the-old-pueblo