Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

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I need to hear some intelligent comments about the new wide rim fad. Is this worth paying attention to? For the wide-format training wheels I have, I don't actually like the way the brakes feel and am otherwise nonplussed.
Dave I ride stans 340 rims on Alchemy hubs.  These  rims produce a wide footprint due to their wide inner cavity.  Very close to a true 23mm wide rim.  I love the wide rim.  Stans are really light...maybe too light, but I am using the widest flange hubs available and built them 24/28.  The Alchemy hubs ran me $700...but I've never owned a really good set of hubs.  I am a believer in the benefits of the wide rim.  I switched from my Neuvation aluminum clinchers and the ride quality was evident.  My hands do not go numb anymore after riding on rough, crappy roads.  My aluminum bike is not smooth, but my wheels really help.  The Velocity A23's are a solid choice that won't break the bank.  My builder (Ergott wheels) has a new 23 mm rim he has been testing that he really likes.  You should shot him an email.  Eric is a stand up guy and he will give you the straight poop.  yacks 
The Pancenti SL23....sounds very Italian and very exotic !!!!

http://www.ergottwheels.com

image
does that come in SRAM or only in Campy?

I think that's the wrong picture.  That's the Prosciutti SL23, not the Pancenti.  Very similar but one has aero dimples.

@ David

I'm riding Velocity A23s, 32-spokes ultegra hubs with 25mm maxis refuse winter tires. 

They are pretty great, but I can't tell if it is the wide rims, the wide tires, the lower PSI or combinations of the 3. not very scientific.  

Cornering is much easier. I feel like I'm sticking to the road while descending. The shock absorption is great. 


mperlberg said:

@ David

I'm riding Velocity A23s, 32-spokes ultegra hubs with 25mm maxis refuse winter tires. 

They are pretty great, but I can't tell if it is the wide rims, the wide tires, the lower PSI or combinations of the 3. not very scientific.  

Cornering is much easier. I feel like I'm sticking to the road while descending. The shock absorption is great. 


I think braking performance is the issue he specifically brought up. I assume it is in relation to narrow rims without resetting your brakes between switching wide and narrow profile rims on the same bike. Could that issue be resolved with resetting your brakes so they have the same distance to the rim than your previous setup? Or could it be related to the rim material/finish difference between your wide and narrow rims. Inquiring minds want to know.

@David, What brakes are you using ? I've used A23, Hed Belgium C2 and Zipp 101 with Shimano Ultegra (6600 and 6700 and DA 7900 and modulation and power is good, but not as good as with 19/20mm rims.

Campagnolo should be the same, but I have read reports that SRAM and some exotics (ZeroG, etc) have issues with the wider rims.

Even shimano acknowledge a need for improvement since the new 9000 series is designed for improved braking with wider rims.

I'm using some very old Campy brakes. They still work ok. Just a tendency to chatter and grab. This may be due to worn brake pads hitting a different rim surface at a slightly different angle. Or maybe I need 21st century components.


oops. not sure how i missed that. 

I'm using cool stop brake pads with Ultegra brakes. I can't complain at all. The braking is smooth and steady even with worn pads. I'll update when I swap the pads out. 

But I'd have to say I think the braking is improved over my ultegra wheels. 
Does this belong here or under "fandom?"

http://www.nobi.co.uk/epages/es144855.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es144855/Categories/E-SHOP/"Buy Grand Tour"
dstokes said:
I'm using some very old Campy brakes. They still work ok. Just a tendency to chatter and grab. This may be due to worn brake pads hitting a different rim surface at a slightly different angle. Or maybe I need 21st century components.

The wider rims means you're not hitting flush with your preworn pads, you're only catching the lip. Re-toe!

Al Barouh and I got drunk on Saturday and he told me that several kissenas have come into Ride Brooklyn for fits with him and asked for more extreme stem length/drop positions than he recommended, and when he asked why, they expressed concern over WDC making fun of them.

Is this true?

Have I become the Mean Girl?

image
While I didn't reference you William, I did tell Al that I felt somewhat emasculated by his 90mm stem recommendation. I got a 3t ARX team 90mm which actually measures out to 95mm...and that extra 5mm does help my psyche a bit.. 

I always try remember that it's not the size of the stem that's important. It's the motion of the ocean

So William, what do the ladies think of your stem?


@Rick

Al (who I love and respect) does seem to have have preference for shorter reach.  The first time he saw me on my bike (as fit by Mike Sherry) he suggested that I was way too stretched out. And he may (or may not) be on to something.  As I'm sure you've discovered, each fitter seems to have their own preconceptions as to what the "correct" fit is (whether it is mathematically based, predicated on a piece of fit apparatus, a trust in their own instinct and/or experience, and/or a mixture of all of the above). And some are more dogmatic about that than others. So...if you find -- after riding with it for a bit -- that the micro rudder which Al has foist upon you is not right, feel free to question his notion. (Bear in mind however, per my forum ID picture, I have never let proper fit get in the way of my aesthetic goals.)   

@neilx

I do have fairly long reach bars at 89mm...44cm 3t Ergosums(I actually think I might be better off w 42's but this didn't come up during the fit). And I did feel a little too stretched out with these and my previous 3t 110mm stem. Al asked me about my flexibility and I said that I don't consider myself to be very flexible. So perhaps when considering all this, his recommendation does make sense. Or maybe like you say he(like other fitters) has his ingrained preferences and is a proponent of what Competitive Cyclist offers as their Eddy(Merckx) fit.

So far I am more comfortable in the drops and I feel more comfortable overall on the bike. But as I only got the fit a few weeks ago it's still too early to draw any hard conclusions.

 But man, that stem looks short!

@ Rick

Makes sense. 

Does anyone have any experience with, or know about good reviews for the Aican Shift Derailleur kit?

Ebay Listing

My Orbea Orca came with the Gore Ride On Professional Low Friction kit

Yet another ebay listing

I need to replace the cables and housing and read that Gore has stopped selling the Ride On set.  Their site says it's due to a recall on brake cables, which concerns me, and the folks at RB said Gore owns another brand that makes similar cables, but I can't remember the name.  The Aican set looks exactly like the Gore set and it's $20 less expensive, but I don't know anything about them.

Weight Weenies had a positive review from last year.  I'm looking for anyone who has experience with this set, or a recommendation for shifter cables and housings that are similar.  The Orbea came with the set because it uses the thin plastic housing along the downtube, making the shift cables appear internal yet they run externally against the downtube.  I don't need to replace the plastic housings, just the cables and black housings on my handlebar and rear derailleur.


Around Jan 9 there was an animated discussion about cables in this same thread. Scroll back and read through the various comments (or search for 'cables' and you will see some of them)

OK - 

My garmin powered down during our coffee break in Piermont. 

Mother fucker kept freezing upon restart. I finally got it to work by the time we were back to 9W. 

Problem is, I lost all my data from the 1st half of the ride. sucks! 

I lost all my data today. The thing did some sort if internal reset. I just copied last weeks ride for stress purposes. Very similar overall.
I had problems with my power tap last week. It was fine when I left the house, but then failed to pair with the computer after a long wait (and auto power off) at the bridge. Same behavior mid week. Today it was fine, but I did not let it empower off. My hypothesis is that the battery needs changing and when it gets cold it goes a little below the required voltage. But this is just a hypothesis.
@dstokes that sounds likely. If you know someone who has a Joule that can pair to your hub (me!) it will tell you when your battery is low. Beat best is just to change batteries. Your problem will likely go away
@Mike I've had similar problems at the start of a ride; it takes forever to turn on and seems to be frozen.  Looked online for similar issues but no resolution.  I suspect it is related to when the device is nearly full of old files, but have no proof.
@Patrick. I have a joule. How does it help you diagnose a low battery?
JP, what say you?

http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/photos/new-pioneer-power-meter-spotted-at-tirreno-adriatico
@dstokes my Joule 2.0 flashes a "low battery" warning on the top left hand (where it usually displays time) of the screen when the hub battery gets low.
Jules said:
I say way too early to tell.  I saw it at Interbike and there are plenty of questions that only a long-term field test could answer.  It's limited to those DA cranks.  The head unit had some cool features.  I have the press kit in my computer somewhere if anyone cares to see it.
mugwump said:
Jules said:
I say way too early to tell.  I saw it at Interbike and there are plenty of questions that only a long-term field test could answer.  It's limited to those DA cranks.  The head unit had some cool features.  I have the press kit in my computer somewhere if anyone cares to see it.
Come on, this is the Gear Thread... Care to see!  Care to see!  Care to see!