Jul 15, 2013 at 01:39 PM
@David
Was the BB installed at 718 cyclery??
Was the BB installed at 718 cyclery??
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Jul 15, 2013 at 02:12 PM
Lots of potential reasons for this noise.
Start with the pedals. Take them off, clean and regrease (try a different set of pedals).
Move to the cranks. Take them off, clean and regrease the BB. Inspect the bearings and make sure they spin freely (I recently discovered that mine were shreaded - creating play)
Finally, check to bolts on the chain rings. They should be evenly tightened all the way around. You could take them off, clean the bolts and seats, replace and gradually tighten them moving from one to another across the circle.
Start with the pedals. Take them off, clean and regrease (try a different set of pedals).
Move to the cranks. Take them off, clean and regrease the BB. Inspect the bearings and make sure they spin freely (I recently discovered that mine were shreaded - creating play)
Finally, check to bolts on the chain rings. They should be evenly tightened all the way around. You could take them off, clean the bolts and seats, replace and gradually tighten them moving from one to another across the circle.
Jul 15, 2013 at 02:47 PM
I built up the bike myself with a friend.Thierry Bonnaire said:@David Was the BB installed at 718 cyclery??
@Stokes, I'll go through it again, but think it's the drive side BB bearing since everything else seemed secure and the play was directly from the right crank spindle/BB cup.
Jul 15, 2013 at 05:10 PM
Hello carbon "nanotubed" frameset....It's me...the 2014 Specialized S-Works Allez...I'm here to eat your lunch and then I'm I'm going to run the train on your b.b. When I'm done you're gonna BB30 ready !!!
Jul 15, 2013 at 05:21 PM
Jul 15, 2013 at 05:45 PM
@yang, in my experience, rhythmic creaking from the "bottom bracket" means that you need to tighten your rear quick release and pay ride brooklyn $75
Jul 15, 2013 at 06:11 PM
Best fixit advice of 2013.Brendan Rigby said:@yang, in my experience, rhythmic creaking from the "bottom bracket" means that you need to tighten your rear quick release and pay ride brooklyn $75
Jul 15, 2013 at 10:52 PM
Oh wow, only $7000. Who's the retard now?twoyacks said:
Jul 16, 2013 at 12:03 AM
I see someone's elbow is healthy enough for a bit of troll wanking !!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y3FzVQi-R8
Jul 16, 2013 at 01:56 PM
Update on the bb thing...
Strange, the clunking disappeared. I started off on the ride this morning and felt it a little bit - not as pronounced but it was there. Within the mile it takes to get to the park it stopped. Smooth with no play.
I ordered another BB set yesterday and will replace it this week anyway just in case. If the bearing cartridges can be replaced maybe I'll do that on the old set and keep it around for backup.
Strange, the clunking disappeared. I started off on the ride this morning and felt it a little bit - not as pronounced but it was there. Within the mile it takes to get to the park it stopped. Smooth with no play.
I ordered another BB set yesterday and will replace it this week anyway just in case. If the bearing cartridges can be replaced maybe I'll do that on the old set and keep it around for backup.
Jul 16, 2013 at 02:01 PM
david can you provide a link to your actual bb? i'm curious. there's several "GXP" bb's on the sram spec site, some adapters, some not. do all GXP's require an "adapter" in that they always go into non-GXP BB's via a) screwing into a threaded BB or b) pressing into an unthreaded BB?
i was mostly joking about my experience, but the take-home from that is that noises aren't always what you think they are. my BB now (post-$75 reinstall and new bearings) is looser than it was before (the integrated adjuster has not been used to apply as much pre-load), but makes no noise at all. before you go blowing money on your BB, dip your whole bike in lubricant.
Jul 16, 2013 at 02:11 PM
@Brendan, mine is just the standard english threaded GXP that came with the groupset, no adapter used or needed on my old frame, just torqued to spec. The only thing I never did was face the BB shell. maybe that's something I should do before replacing the BB. Hrm...
Jul 16, 2013 at 02:27 PM
google-fu tells me that proper facing of bb shell, spacers where necessary, and tireless reinstallation until play is eliminated are hallmarks of GXP: http://vcrcbike.blogspot.com/2010/04/my-sram-bb-has-play.html
i have spare bb30 wavy washers if you need/if they'll fit. my cranks have integrated adjusters, not wavy washers
Jul 16, 2013 at 02:53 PM
Ah, so super finicky, eh? I'll definitely have the shop face the shell. Make sure that's out of the equation. Thanks Rigby.
Jul 18, 2013 at 12:00 AM
@yang: i just don't want you to buy the BB, pay to get it installed, then find that the noise persists. that's what happened to me. then again, if it's cheap and you're employed, whatever.
on a different note: if anyone suspects that their shifters suffer diminished function due to grime, i followed the instructions on this video and subjectively feel that my shifters operate better now: http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/06/video/ask-a-mechanic-cleaning-and-lubing-shifters_292385.
also consider degreasing then lubing the brake hood hinge; i found that my rear brake was getting difficult to pull. replaced the cables and it was better but still not great. sprayed finish line into the hinge, then sprayed in some boeshield t9, and it feels smoother. or at least that's what the placebo effect tells me.
Jul 18, 2013 at 12:27 AM
I sprayed degreaser into my shifters once and they never worked the same since. No matter how many spray lubes I drenched in there post cleaning frenzy.
Jul 18, 2013 at 01:02 AM
I have campy. I spray nothing. Nothing I tell you.
Jul 18, 2013 at 03:41 AM
oh jeez. well, the video depicts sram shifters. it purports to apply to all shifters, but i can only attest that it worked on my sram rival shifters. their workings are quite exposed and do attract grime. SRAM users: peel thee back thy handlebar tape, and behold unholiest pawls rubbing filthiest grime against tender gears that yearn only to shift.
i didn't follow the video. if grease is applied like that chap recommends, i find the grease attracts dirt and becomes an abrasive paste. speedplay advises against greasing their cleats for this reason: grease + dirt = liquid sandpaper. grease is best used to keep water out after another barrier steers dirt away. i did not brush on a layer of grease as that chap recommended. if my shifters brake (not a typo) you'll be the first to know.
manufacturers do seem to recommend against flooding your shifters with degreaser. but if you apply a penetrating lubricant like boeshield (patented! magical! cures cancer! costs more.) then it seems to find its way into all the nooks and crannies that your degreaser desiccated. it has a magical osmosis action like progold. it's fun to watch.
consider my current shifters an experiment
Jul 18, 2013 at 11:49 AM
Campy shifters can be disassembled, cleaned and regreased lightly. Usually only necessary when something is broken. Ask Aly to do it for you.
Jul 18, 2013 at 02:29 PM
@rigby did you clean the grime before using boeshield?
Jul 19, 2013 at 12:05 PM
yes, like in that video, i sprayed in an obscene amount of finish line aerosol degreaser. i think what's important is that it is an evaporate vs. a wipe-off/rinse-off degreaser. so after 30 seconds the degreaser is gone and ready for lubricant. i then sprayed in an obscene amount of lubricant. lots of obscenity
Jul 20, 2013 at 04:32 PM
I need some CX advice guys... the bike fairy will be putting a CX frame under my pillow in the coming weeks, and I need thoughts on how to have her spec this thing. Independent Fabrication is building it (Amelia the 953 SSR cracked and I.F. is replacing it under warranty --awesome to get 5 year coverage on materials!).
They offered to build me an XCr cross frame, but I'm not too impressed with the stainless stuff... I don't have the cash to upgrade to Ti, so it's tried and true steel for me. I will probably use the bike more for winter training than cross racing, but I want the bike to be good for the races. Chris Dornbach is working at IF now and he is helping me with geometry and tube specs etc.
I am leaning towards getting a 44mm headtube and sliding a Whiskey no.7 Cross disc fork into it. I definitely want disc brakes --if only to make the winter training easier (I've already ruined one pair of nice wheels getting crud in the brake pads which butchered-up the rims. And I want fender mounts for the winter training too.
OR --for a more classic steel look, I could go with a 1 and 1/8 HT and use a custom steel fork or a Wound-Up (painted to match the frame).
The tapered Whiskey fork is more attractive to me because I think it will be stiffer and significantly lighter than a Steel or Wound-Up fork (although the latter is supposedly quite stiff). The Whiskey beats the Enve because it has fender eyelets and it's also quite a bit less expensive.
I will probably go with a single chainring upfront, since I have a sram single crankset in my box of stuff and I recently got a Surly Singleator so I can switch-up and do some singlespeed cross races too (just have to get a good costume ready).
Probably going with Avid BB7 disc brakes.
No idea on wheels --something inexpensive with decent weight and stiffness. I reckon tubeless is the way to go given both CX and winter training is the dual purpose.
Any thoughts and recommendations will be most welcome!
Jul 20, 2013 at 05:03 PM
Norm takes up CX racing... West Coast Crossers weep with despair.
Jul 20, 2013 at 05:35 PM
Jules --yep, I can hear them now "who's that asshole who keeps crashing!"
Jul 20, 2013 at 05:36 PM
@Norm - I think you're right that tubeless is the best compromise for CX and training. You can always pick up a set of full-on disc tubulars later for racing.
Jul 20, 2013 at 06:15 PM
@Norm you know what I like to say, "if you ain't flyin' you ain't tryin'!"
Crash on you glorious beast!
Crash on you glorious beast!
Jul 21, 2013 at 08:58 PM
Anybody recommend going with a steel fork (still disc-brakes) for this cx bike I'll be getting?
Jul 22, 2013 at 01:24 AM
Is that rhetorical?
Jul 22, 2013 at 02:20 PM
ha ha... I think I'm set for a carbon fork, but I do like the look of the classic all steel frame/fork. But you're right, I think I have my answer.