Sep 15, 2013 at 01:24 AM
Anyone have floor pump recommendations?
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
Sep 15, 2013 at 01:54 AM
Joe blow
Sep 15, 2013 at 02:41 AM
Lezyne....cnc digital....there is no substitute.
Sep 15, 2013 at 01:00 PM
As much as I like Leyzne, I find that My silca pump still works the best and is my favorite. The screw on head of the leyzene a makes me not want to use it as much anymore. It was cool at first but now it doesn't always work well.
Sep 15, 2013 at 02:22 PM
my experience with a couple everyman's pumps:
- Serfas FP-35 - do not buy; pressure gauge works only in 20 PSI increments. the price is a blowout, and so will your tires!
- Planet Bike AluX - works but is not pleasurable to use; feels cheap. the threads in the pump head strip easily if you shove the head down onto a threaded valve stem (and who doesn't?). head can be rebuilt for $5.99 (planet bike ships small parts for free from their website!) but i'd spring for something with a one-head-fits-all-valves. those seems less likely to strip because the pump head is not tightened until after it is pushed down onto the stem.
also consider whether the gauge is at the bottom of the pump or towards the top. it can be hard to see!
Sep 15, 2013 at 07:10 PM
Got to see some of the 2014 Di2 Dura Ace line today. Suuuuper hot. Battery is in the seat post.
As Ferris would say...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV2Y2kIUkIs
Sep 16, 2013 at 02:39 PM
Thanks guys, will have to see the different pump heads at the shop. I like the quick locking ones...
Sep 16, 2013 at 03:21 PM
2. Ultegra chain. Get yourself a few reinforced connecting pins STAT. Their pins are made to be used once. This, to me, puts you in far greater danger than Brendan's frayed tire.
Followup: just wanted to confirm that this is very true. I hadn't gotten around to replacing the pin in this chain when Saturday's cx practice rolled around, and paid the price of a snapped chain. Luckily I noticed before anything too chaotic happened, but it put an end to practice.I replaced the now defunct link, and added one extra to smooth things out. Now one of the new links is pretty tight, and doesn't bend freely. Any hints for getting some lube in there aside from just massaging it for a while? I'm tempted to fiddle with the seating of the new pin using a chaintool, to see if that's the problem - but after recent events am wary of messing with it. Any hints?<I love having you guys around for this kind of fiddly advice, btw. Thanks!>
Sep 16, 2013 at 03:30 PM
@Alex, do the old "Z" trick I learned from Sheldon. Works like a charm.
http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html
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Stiff Link?
-
If you have a regular, repeating skip or hitch every 3
or 4 turns of the pedals, you may have a stiff chain link. This is
commonly the link where the chain was joined when it was installed. When
the chain tool presses the pin through the chain, the head of the pin
tends to pull the uppermost chain plate along with it, so that the two
outer plates are squeezing together against the inner plates.
The easiest way to fix this is to bend the problem area of the chain into a "Z" shape, with the bad joint on the diagonal part, then flex the chain back and forth. This will slightly spread the tight plates, and free up the link.
Sep 16, 2013 at 03:31 PM
in my limited experience, a tight link meant i had over/under-inserted that particular pin. minute adjustments with the chain tool and the stickiness was gone.
Sep 16, 2013 at 04:00 PM
Sep 18, 2013 at 12:23 AM
Sep 18, 2013 at 12:04 PM
once again, a misdiagnosed my bicycle. it seems that what i thought were mysterious issues of front derailleur/chainring/cross-chaining are traceable to chain length. i installed a new chain and did not remove enough links. woops! still, removing one link is better than the time i paid ride $70 for a new bottom bracket i didn't need after insisting that i needed it. maybe i'll never be the dr. house of bicycles...
Sep 18, 2013 at 12:14 PM
Here's a quick question for y'all. Headsets, not the quill stem kind. the "new" kind. Do I need that Medieval torture looking device called a headset press to replace? I understand that most of the parts simply "fall away" when you loosen/remove the bolt at the top of the headset, but what about those cups that sort of anchor everything together and appear to be the primary contact point between the headtube and the rest of the headset bits?
Sep 18, 2013 at 02:44 PM
@Marc. Possibly.
It all depends on the type of threadless headset you have. There are external cup and internal versions. The former are what you describe, where there are cups for the upper and lower bearings to sit in. Those cups do need to be pressed into the frame. (And as such the old cups need to be knocked out of the frame).
FYI : Internal versions of these headsets are used where the frame has the bearing races moulded into the headtube directly.
This page on the cane creek site shows both http://www.canecreek.com/products/headsets/110
It all depends on the type of threadless headset you have. There are external cup and internal versions. The former are what you describe, where there are cups for the upper and lower bearings to sit in. Those cups do need to be pressed into the frame. (And as such the old cups need to be knocked out of the frame).
FYI : Internal versions of these headsets are used where the frame has the bearing races moulded into the headtube directly.
This page on the cane creek site shows both http://www.canecreek.com/products/headsets/110
Sep 19, 2013 at 01:47 PM
Is there any kind of a learning curve associated with the attachment process for a Saris Bones? Or is it pretty easy/intuitive the first time out? I'm renting a Fiat to get me up to SIlk City Cross in CT on Saturday and have budgeted about 45 extra minutes to put the rack on.
The Saris website says it will fit
Sep 19, 2013 at 02:27 PM
It will fit - no doubt.
If you take it out and read the instructions and try mounting it to your dining room table the night before, then assembly onto the car trunk will be a 10-15 min job.
Just need to find the appropriate angle for the arms and secure 6 straps to the car.
If you take it out and read the instructions and try mounting it to your dining room table the night before, then assembly onto the car trunk will be a 10-15 min job.
Just need to find the appropriate angle for the arms and secure 6 straps to the car.
Sep 19, 2013 at 03:59 PM
Having just used my own Bones rack this past weekend for the first time, I give it a thumbs up. I kind of wish the adjustment screws weren't plastic, but that said, once I got all the arms in the right angles and cinched down the straps, that thing was rock solid, even after multiple trunk opening and closings.
I did find the instructions rather not helpful though. Here's the big thing you need to know about adjusting the arms. loosen the plastic screws, then slide the rack arms inward or outward off of the splined sections of the rack onto the smooth sections then the arms will rotate freely to the appropriate angle, slide them back onto the splined section, tighten aforementioned plastic screws and attach the straps (conveniently labled top, bottom, side) to the car.
The big thing I find with any strappy, trunky rack is adjusting the tightness of the straps in phases, little bit here, little bit there before and after bike is on the rack.
Sep 19, 2013 at 07:13 PM
Okay, so based on the fact that my headset cups do not come out, I'm thinking I have the external kind. So now that I've pretty much determined that I need to change my bearings, I wandered around the Upper West Side of Manhattan and went to two diff't shops before I found the "string of pearl" style bearings that came from my "aheadset" headset. Now the replacement don't seem to have as many ball bearings, but they are basically the same size, I think.ian ellis said:@Marc. Possibly.
It all depends on the type of threadless headset you have. There are external cup and internal versions. The former are what you describe, where there are cups for the upper and lower bearings to sit in. Those cups do need to be pressed into the frame. (And as such the old cups need to be knocked out of the frame).
FYI : Internal versions of these headsets are used where the frame has the bearing races moulded into the headtube directly.
This page on the cane creek site shows both http://www.canecreek.com/products/headsets/110
My question now, is, can I replace the string of pearl style bearings with one of those fancy sealed cartridge types? Or do I need an entirely diff't kind of headset for that to work?
Sep 19, 2013 at 10:39 PM
The cartridge bearing has to sit into a complementary recess in the 'cup' (or in the frame for an internal headset). You cup is presumably curved to allow rolling of the ball bearings and will not be compatible with the square shape of the cartridge bearing. You can probably just pack the bearings in there directly without using the race. That's what I used to do in the old days.
Now that you have revealed more about the nature of your headset, I have to say that ball bearings can pit the cups such that the bearing surfaces have indentations where the balls have been sitting most of the time (i.e. when the bike is going straight ahead). These indentations prevent smooth rotation, as the balls prefer to settle into the indentations rather than rotate up onto the intervening ridges. Another scenario is that the bearing surface has just become corroded and rough. Then the turning will feel gritty. The only cure for such pitting is to replace the cups, which someone with the right tool can surely remove for you (and then you can replace the whole assembly with the cartridge bearing type of headset which don't rely on bearing surfaces).
Now that you have revealed more about the nature of your headset, I have to say that ball bearings can pit the cups such that the bearing surfaces have indentations where the balls have been sitting most of the time (i.e. when the bike is going straight ahead). These indentations prevent smooth rotation, as the balls prefer to settle into the indentations rather than rotate up onto the intervening ridges. Another scenario is that the bearing surface has just become corroded and rough. Then the turning will feel gritty. The only cure for such pitting is to replace the cups, which someone with the right tool can surely remove for you (and then you can replace the whole assembly with the cartridge bearing type of headset which don't rely on bearing surfaces).
Sep 19, 2013 at 11:39 PM
Marc, this guide to headset service likely pictures the type of headset you have: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service. It is a "press-fit" headset. As opposed to an "integrated headset," where instead of external cups, ridges inside the headtube press against cartridge bearings and hold them in place. Your artful "string of pearls" moniker refers to what that guide calls the "bearing retainer," I think.
+1 to Stokes. You can't replace just the bearing retainer; you need to replace the races (called "pressed headset races" in that guide) because they wear with the bearing retainers. If your car has 300,000 miles, an oil change is unlikely to revitalize the engine. The system wears together.
You do not need new bearings alone; you need a new "press-fit headset" (this term is used more widely than "external headset," it would seem). It might also come with a new crown race for your fork, which the bottom of the lower headset bearing will ride against.
Your next step is to identify precisely what size headset you need. For this purpose, you can call Trek (I recall your bike being a Trek). Or use Cane Creek's website, which will tell you which of their headsets fits your bike. http://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder. They may offer a cartridge bearing solution. Even if you don't want to buy one of their headsets, their headset finder can help you if your bike is in their database. It will save your from measuring your headtube inner diameter and fork diameter.
Sep 20, 2013 at 02:43 AM
Sep 20, 2013 at 03:40 PM
Sep 20, 2013 at 04:56 PM
Cool!$400!!!??!
http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/09/17/ib13-paves-no-longer-just-for-prosspeedplay-releases-classics-pedal-brass-knuckle-flats/
They do look cool and like you could stab someone with them.
Sep 20, 2013 at 05:46 PM
someone like the person riding them right in the gastrocnemiusJeff Owens said:Cool! http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/09/17/ib13-paves-no-longer-just-for-prosspeedplay-releases-classics-pedal-brass-knuckle-flats/............. and like you could stab someone with them.
Sep 23, 2013 at 02:21 PM
anyone had a good experience with a modern internally-geared hub?
i'm considering add one to wifey's single speed.
please tell ALL
Sep 23, 2013 at 07:55 PM
yes. I have Shimano 3-speed. It's heavy but it works. I have no idea how to service it. And the gear ratios are such that I never really feel like I'm in the right gear.
Sep 23, 2013 at 09:18 PM
I'm regluing my cross tubulars. The tires are still in good condition but the glue was nearly two seasons old and it was time.
The tires came off relatively easily and I've cleaned the rims. The base tape is all in good condition and I coudn't find anywhere it was peeling from the tire but there is a good amount of old glue on the base tape. How much of it do I need to get off before regluing?
Sep 24, 2013 at 12:49 AM
thank you david
anyone have an 8 or 11 speed internal hub they want to tell me bout?
Sep 24, 2013 at 01:01 AM
living in bk 's made u gangsta. lemme holler at them cranks son, wanna tell me bout that hub yo?
I'm trying to cleanup...in harlem.