ian ellis said:

I'm about to restore and rebuild my 1985 steel frame with a view to riding L'Eroica next year.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a frame builder who could braze in some new water bottle mounts (the frame is Reynolds 753 tubing) and also for good painters/finishers who  will be able to recreate the original '80s fade paint and the original decals.

Tom Kellogg of Spectrum.  I'm sure his work isn't cheap, but the results are generally great.  

@Brendan don't lose sleep; I sure am not. Murray did the full Monty check on the shifting system while I watched and declared it defective.

I'm happy warranty it.

@Brendan - WTF???

I would also like to hear this tale of woe (and hopefully eventual mirth).

The lesson here. Don't rely on Brendan for recommendations for derailleur adjustment advice. 

My wrenching reputation and I are happy to announce that it was unrelated to derailleur adjustment.

I stopped to take a layer off and forgetfully left my PEARL IZUMI gloves on top of my panniers. One of them fell into the chain somehow. next thing I know: sadness. 45 minute commute became 2 hours

How'd you get the beans over the frank??

Dag Rigby that is the suck.  Glad you didn't skid out and fall off a ravine though.

wheel rebuilding question: i need to replace 2-4 spokes in fulcrum racing 7's, rear wheel, drive side.  never done this before.

Brendan,

yes...it is akin to running with a weighted vest...only completely different

Yaks, I do not understand. It is a ripoff?

whoops my response was to Aaron's questions about using a towel under the rollers...which does in fact create resistance.  You my friend are enjoying the tertiary benefits of owning prebuilt, proprietary wheel systems...parts ain't cheap and you are locked in to the prices the manufacturer sets for replacement parts.  Brendan you are an old soul in so many ways but a hopeless newbie when it comes to cycling accoutrement.   And congrats on your Roval wheels earning 3rd place in the hall of fame!!!

I had my bike fitted by Chad Butts at WRX in Midtown and it was an overall good experience. I think the one in Gowanus is called Acme.

Jon Blyer, http://www.acmebicycleco.com/bicycle-fitting/.  more information in the bicycle fit thread. 

There should be a forum equivalent of Godwin's law for Clinchers vs Tubulars and Campy vs the World.

although I haven't tried all the various combinations, I suspect you won't find much Bliss with alloy tubulars on the road. if you are stuck with alloy, I t think high quality clincher tires z will be fine. the reason I finally gave in to tubulars was because the carbon tubular wheels were cheaper and lighter and invulnerable to side wall failure. alloy wheels don't have these issues.

Aaron if they are race only...then go for carbon tubs...they are the cat's pajamas....

aaron, just save up longer and buy carbon.  if you buy aluminum you will just want carbon.  i have no carbon wheels and, well, every day is just a little bit more miserable than the last.

Brendan you just got the plastic wheel thing bass-ackwards...the plastic is supposed to be at the rims...not the hubs...

see what i mean, aaron?  even the guy named after one of these makes fun of me:

Whooa...where was she when I was looking for a wife ???

@twoyacks-Awesome that you can tell that it's a female.

mugwump said:

Bike radar has a "First RIde" review.  http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/accessories/product/review-garmin-vector-power-meter-14-47478

It's a strange one.  The power registers lower than a PT-hubbed wheel.   As we know, consistency is more impmortant than accuracy, but something seems wrong to me about the power registering lower--considering the friction losses of the chain, hub-based power units register lower than crank based, as the power is generated at the crank, so why would pedal-based be lower than at the hub?  And they didn't ask Garmin about this; Garmin must have an answer.  

Strikes me that the pedal unit is not quite ready.  But maybe they'll be making frequent firmware updates to overcome this.  Stages is still doing firmware updates and has supposedly improved greatly since the winter.

Just wondering if anyone has heard of any progress on these Vector pedals? Anybody know anyone using them? 

Anyone ever replace just one or two cogs in their cassette rather than buy an entirely new one? I've got one, maybe two, cogs that must be worn. I've got crisp shifting on all other cogs on this particular cassette and on another less used cassette. It's a cog smack in the middle of the cassette and hence used most frequently. It's a SRAM 1070.

Craig, yes.  I built a PG 1070 11-26 from combining some of an 11-23 with some of a 12-26.  See http://kissenacycling.vanillaforums.com/discussion/comment/32171#Comment_32171.  You can interchange the middle 4 cogs on a 10-speed PG 1070 cassette; the outer 3 and inner 3 should be kept together.  You'll see why when you have it in front of you.