just saw mention of knobby tires in the prospect park thread.  does anyone know of a knobby tire that will fit a CAAD10?

Say...my brake/shifter cables are 2 years old.  Looking to replace....what is a good brand.  Anyone with electronic shifting can go suck it...respectfully of course.

I use Jagwire Pro, bro, for my aluminum Trek.  No problems, works great.  Change it every year.

Yacks, 

Yokozuma it is...and only because I like saying...Yokozuma

I think Ritchey Speedmaxs used to come in 28, not sure if they still do. Bet you could find some on ebay. Yang has one of mine and it fit in his road frame (though it was an older steel frame which may have more clearance than a newer one).

ok the internet is not providing me enough information, so I am coming to you yahoos.

I've been having trouble shifting into the smallest gear on my cassette; checked the usual suspects:

Apologies for having to ask for clarification: but when you say smallest gear, do you really mean gear (as in largest sprocket) or instead smallest sprocket ?

If the latter then dirt somewhere in the cable routing (often under the BB) can prevent shifting into the smallest sprocket since cable tension is almost nil.

@Brendan, with Jim's blessings I can hand off the cx tire to you to try out.  If I don't see you this weekend I can bring it to work next week.

@Yang no, the rear der is all good.  Springs lubed, you can manually move it from each limit just fine.  It behaves this way exactly the same on three different sets of wheels.

So when you try to shift into the cog, does the arm not hit the limit screw?

so I was looking at Bikepedia, and it seems like it was delivered with Sora 3400 levers and a Tiagra 5400 derailleur, these are apparently 9sp. 

Everyone touch my speedmax.

@Jules, I used to have the same problem until I cleaned my rear derailleur. pulleys but most importantly the spring: spary a whole lot of degreaser onto the spring and clean it with a toothbrush...that did it.

@Yang..."Very stiff and slightly wider diameter.  You also have to finish and clean up the ends carefully...."  How this escaped the heavy handed moderators on this forum is beyond me.

@Jules. one possibility that I somehow doubt applies to you is a dirty derailleur. If there is resistance at the pivot points, then the spring is not strong enough to push the  derailleur down into the position for the smallest cog. Stick it in your sonicator and then relube the pivot points. This problem also prevalent after power washing a 'cross bike, which may wash away the lubricant at said pivot points.

@Stokes thanks - I worried about the same but Murray blasted the rear der with a fair bit of lube. I can race it as is but I'll pull the whole shebang apart when the weekend is done.

Another thing you might consider is cleaning the shifter mechanism itself. On phone now so can't provide link, but I described it earlier in this thread. Dirty mechanism might stop it from moving into one detente that corresponds to one length of cable that corresponds to one gear. I think it will void your shifter warranty. So maybe warranty it first. When in doubt, warranty. Shop should just call you when it's in...

I did the procedures in that guide and it revitalized my shifters. Rival shifters with red derr works swimmingly

@jules of course the easiest solution is : Di2

My powertap wheel is on the fritz. Was working one day last week and then the next, not.  I replaced the batteries about a month ago so that shouldn't be it, though just to test that, I threw in some new ones and still no signal. The carrier with the battery wiggles a bit when it is inserted into the hub. I played with it at different positions and nothing. I've tried using a piece of cardboard (battery packaging) as a shim to hold it firm - still no luck.

Anyone have any other ideas? I called Saris/Powertap and the one thing they suggested that I haven't done was removing the batteries for a full 20 mins so that the capacitors can completely drain. I'll try that, but I'm not optimistic.

They offered me a rebuild of my hub (new axle, freehub, G3 electronics, etc) for $350. That's not the answer I was looking for when I called.

ian ellis said:

@jules of course the easiest solution is : Di2

The thought *had* occurred to me...

Craig Zolan said:

My powertap wheel is on the fritz. Was working one day last week and then the next, not.  I replaced the batteries about a month ago so that shouldn't be it, though just to test that, I threw in some new ones and still no signal. The carrier with the battery wiggles a bit when it is inserted into the hub. I played with it at different positions and nothing. I've tried using a piece of cardboard (battery packaging) as a shim to hold it firm - still no luck.

Anyone have any other ideas? I called Saris/Powertap and the one thing they suggested that I haven't done was removing the batteries for a full 20 mins so that the capacitors can completely drain. I'll try that, but I'm not optimistic.

They offered me a rebuild of my hub (new axle, freehub, G3 electronics, etc) for $350. That's not the answer I was looking for when I called.

                POWERCAL.....mine always works

@craig: Does the powertap communicate with your laptop? You could try updating the firmware, just as a way to reset everything. I don't have detailed instructions in front of me, but it involves removing the electronics element from the hub, removing the battery and connecting it to your laptop via USB, running PowerAgent, attempting the upgrade. If it doesn't communicate with PowerAgent, then there are larger issues at play.

Also, did you try deleting the hub from your computer and re-pairing it?
Did you make sure you were in an environment without a lot of interfering signals?

@dstokes: I haven't tried connecting the powertap with a computer. I haven't seen any type of usb connector on the hub internals that could be connected to a computer. I always thought that it was done via ANT+ only. I'll play around with it this weekend and see if there is another way to connect to the computer via cable. I do have an ANT+ usb stick, so I'll try that too.

I don't know if there is a "delete" function on the Garmin 800 for the powermeter, but I've been hitting search on it trying to get them to pair with no luck. I've tried that on the sidewalk, in my garage and in my apartment. I don't think interference is the issue.

@yacks - I have returned to using the Powercal in the interim.

twoyacks said:

@yacks - I have returned to using the Powercal in the interim.

Great !   Now about that plastic bike......

Like a car salesmen, but for a non-ferrous metal.

I'm about to restore and rebuild my 1985 steel frame with a view to riding L'Eroica next year.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a frame builder who could braze in some new water bottle mounts (the frame is Reynolds 753 tubing) and also for good painters/finishers who  will be able to recreate the original '80s fade paint and the original decals.

Cuevas