I just got a Garmin 510 and it has some very neat features, but ... I am struggling to get some of the 'basics' sorted. Partly this is because I am old and new-fangled technology is problematic for me, but mainly because I have used an SRM Powercontrol for 5 years and I am extremely comfortable with how that system operates, and I can't seem to mimic the same behaviours from the Garmin.

If anyone is familiar with how the Garmin works your advice will be most welcome.

#1. For the life of me I cannot find an option to change the date and my Garmin is recording all my training as being done in the month of may, which is a huge problem when it loads them into WKO. Please don't say it does it automatically using GPS, because I do a large portion of my training my basement, where there is no reception.

#2. Interval training.
(For those not familiar with SRM this how that works:
Press a button to start recording an interval effort: the screen shows actual values for elapsed time, power, cadence and HR
Press the same button to end recording of the interval: screen shows avg results for power, cadence and HR of that effort to review for a few secs before returning to showing current values.)
OK. I cannot get the garmin to do anything remotely similar.

a) The garmin has a lap button to start recording the interval and I have a layout profile with minimal info that would be useful to see during an effort, but the unit does not automatically show that screen when I start the interval.
b) How do I stop an interval ? Pressing the lap button again doesn't stop interval 1 instead it starts interval 2.

Thanks

Ian, unfortunately I don't have any good advice for you here, but I just wanted to let you know that I'm personally interested in the Garmin 510 as I ramp up to upgrade my Power measuring abilities sooner than later. So, if you find any answers to your questions outside of the forum, I for one, would be interested to read them here as well.

@Ian I think you need to set up a "profile" with the display options you want.  Time & date should be set via GPS but you may have to choose something like "automatically set time & date" somewhere in the bowels of the configuration.

@ian, 

wooden rims?  i guess if it works on a wagon... http://www.ebay.com/itm/CB-ITALIA-pair-ROUBAIX-vintage-wooden-rims-for-tubular-tires-/121047625396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2f002eb4

Wooden rims got a fresh start with Wheel Fanatyk recently.  don't think I'd want to brake on them.  Discs perhaps?  More for a classic fixed-gear.

Brendan...anything and I mean ANYTHING would be better than the plastic hub'd monstrosity you currently roll on.

oh man, what if my wheels were made of carbon?  then you'd really be irate.  luckily for your resting heart rate, these hubs are 100% ALUMINUM

I lost the barrel adjuster on my avid shorty ultimates somewhere on Route 80 on the way to Marty's cx race yesterday. Ragot saved me by lending me one from his pit bike.

I called a couple of shops - none had the barrel adjuster in stock. This wasn't a surprise, but Ride Brooklyn said all the distributors were out of stock and Avid wasn't going to ship until November 4th! Guess I wasn't the only one to lose one.

Before I put my Shorty 6s back on my bike I figured I would ask if someone just happens to have a barrel adjuster in their parts bin or if those of you that work in a shop could check if you have one on stock.

Thanks

someobdy must have:

Take this worth a grain of salt:

@dstokes thanks for the advice. 




Alas it is not the cable end part of the barrel adjuster but the cyclindrical "barrel" that sits within the cantilever arm and holds the cable end. It is held in place by two o-rings. I suspect one of mine popped off like a shuttle booster rocket, leaving the "barrel" to pop out at highway speeds.

On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 9:26 PM, dstokes

I'm looking into building up a Caad 10 frameset and can transfer over a big chunk of the group set from my backup.  Below are the components I still need and would appreciate budget friendly recommendations that aren't too crappy:

• Seat post
• Headset
• Stem
• Bars (prefer traditional "Belgium" bend/drop)
• Bottom bracket & crankset (or can an adapter be used for the GXP set I already have?)

Consider our discount with Ritchey.

dstokes said:

Consider our discount with Ritchey.

Considered.

I have a 3T seatpost you can have and a small chest of stems (some not totally crappy).

I believed I have an unused stem somewhere. Not sure the size, but can dig it up and check if your interested.

David,
I can give you a  FSA Gossamer 53/39 crank set with 172.5mm pedals and a FSA 110mm stem.

David I've got a few stems laying around. What size do you need? 

@yang I've got the stock c2 stem from my caad10 if you'd like- 100mm.

Wow, thanks all for the offers, Kissena is the best! I just put in the matte black frameset order with RB and delivery isn't until Jan 2014 so have plenty of time to gather the parts.

Aaron, it's been a while since I've ridden rollers, so I'm not best to comment on the noise differential (JP has and uses both-ish). But, as I think about it...

I kind of feel like either will produce a kind of "white noise" that will not disturb downstairs neighbors. At the worst they will "hear" a kind of non-descript audio track that might make them speak up at dinner, but certainly won't disturb. I think...

In my old apartment, I used to put the trainer on a tile floor in the kitchen that offered an extra layer of insulation between me and the downstairs neighbor.

I would consider getting some kind of matting though (I used those color puzzle blocks they sell for kids rooms), because if there is going to be a noise problem it might have more to do with any vibrations experienced as you are pedaling along. If you place a trainer or rollers directly on hardwood floors for example you might get extra "booming" sounds.

I would like to interrupt this thread to recount a story; when I lived in Stuytown I was on my wind trainer, merrily buzzing away, in bibs, HRM and pretty much nothing else while Lisa was off saving lives or filling gunshot wounds with silly putty and crazy glue...

Magnetic trainer is quieter. I'm not a 'machine' but no one complained last winter.

Rollers wake the dead, in my experience. Especially bad if you try to run any leg speed drills, and super bad for whomever has the bad luck of being in the room beneath the rollers. That noise gets directly transmitted into the foor from both wheels.

IMO the biggest noise annoyance factor from neighbors come from bass freqs.  I have some karaoke-inclined ones and their singing doesn't annoy me but the subwoofers that cut right through the walls/floors/ceilings do.  To reduce the vibration to the downstairs neighbors I use a heavy foam mat and some extra towels to cushion the trainer and front block (aka old phone books).  

Regardless of your trainer choice, put some sort of insulation between it and the floor.  This will both catch sweat (corrosive) and dampen noise.  In come cases, it also helps keep your trainer unit from moving.  Yoga mat type stuff is simple.  But thicker foam, as Yang suggests, might be better.

mugwump said:

the supervisor and several of her staff busted in to find me rolling along doing leg speed intervals.  They weren't sure what was happening, but figured I was either operating some kind of table saw or possibly a major water pipe blew.  

Are we supposed to provide a caption for this scene?:

"Exactly how far up do you shave?"

David Yang said:

dstokes said:

Consider our discount with Ritchey.

Considered.

I think this is the way to go.  Very (very!) appreciative to everyone who offered parts, but Ritchey has some sweet sweet stuff and our discount is really good. 

Going to pull the trigger on WCS Road Classic bars since they most closely match the old Cinelli 64 bend that I'm used to (about 10mm longer reach, 2-3mm shorter drop).

Stems: Coming from old horizontal top tube frames, anything but a level stem seems "wrong" to me.  Is there a reason why default stem angles seem to be 84D and not 73D?  I like the C260 stem clamp design, but they're all 84D.  The only 73D one I see on Ritchey's shop is the 4-Axis 73D.