When I first installed, I used a torque wrench and followed the SRAM instructions but there was play . Go figure.
Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread
When I first installed, I used a torque wrench and followed the SRAM instructions but there was play . Go figure.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/continental-grand-prix-4000s-tire-con0036
I read a few places that it is not advisable with latex tubes to ride them over their width limit.
I have no personal experience with the situation. You and yacks seem comfortable living on the edge.
- easy to mess up on install and pinch them between bead and rim (they're a bit more delicate)
- latex perishes at some point
- have to check your rim tape is perfect, some cloth tapes just don't play well
- good for race wheels, PITA for training because inflation
Latex tubes:
- easy to mess up on install and pinch them between bead and rim (they're a bit more delicate)
Also do beware that latex tubes are more susceptible to heat build up. I've had them burst in carbon clinchers (themselves a solution to a problem that doesn't exist) here in NY. However, I have also had latex tubes burst in factory shimano alloy rims (the type for clincher/tubeless where there are no spoke holes and no need for rim tape). Here they burst descending in the Dolomites. I suspect the heat build up was too much for the latex tubes.
Ian,ian ellis said:I trust you plan to use these latex tubes with some great race tires (Vittoria CX, CG, Veloflex, schwalbe ZLX).
Also do beware that latex tubes are more susceptible to heat build up. I've had them burst in carbon clinchers (themselves a solution to a problem that doesn't exist) here in NY. However, I have also had latex tubes burst in factory shimano alloy rims (the type for clincher/tubeless where there are no spoke holes and no need for rim tape). Here they burst descending in the Dolomites. I suspect the heat build up was too much for the latex tubes.
I'm with yacks on Latex. Talcum powder is essential.JohnMalcolmson said:Latex tubes:
- easy to mess up on install and pinch them between bead and rim (they're a bit more delicate)
- latex perishes at some point
- have to check your rim tape is perfect, some cloth tapes just don't play well
- good for race wheels, PITA for training because inflation
This is uncharacteristically incomprehensible. First, any heat buildup will increase the pressure in the tube above 100 psi (this is the ideal gas law where P=V*T). Second, although butyl and latex tubes may experience the same pressure , within the tire, they will behave differently when stretched (same as carbon fiber vs. Titanium). Third, Ian refers to Al rims, which are not going to get soft under any conditions that we will be able to endure.mugwump said:Basically, the issue isn't the tube, but the wall of the carbon clincher. 100psi exerts the same force whether latex or butyl. And the blowout is from the wall softening in heat. If there's a difference it's the the greater elasticity of latex means it expands faster when there's nothing holdon'tding it back.
AS: You mentioned latex tubes as well. What magnitude of savings do you get with them? Are they the best examples of a cheap and unsexy upgrade that produces big gains?
JP: Yes, latex is probably the best bang for the buck upgrade you can ever make to any of your bikes. They are definitely more labor intensive to install than butyl, and you have to pump them up every day...but you can save 3-5 watts per wheel(!) compared to butyl. At the moment, tubeless is getting better, but still nobody has a tubeless system as efficient as a high quality standard tire with latex inner tube.
Putting it in perspective, that $20 latex tube at minimum would be worth maybe 3 watts in a front wheel compared to $1000 for the best ceramic bearings which might get you 0.8-1 watt for a wheelset upgrade.