Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

8105 comments · 108281 views
I went with the Purple jockey wheel this year.
I know, I know, Red is faster.  But. . . Purple!



Nice! I was considering getting a pair of pulleys. What brand did you get? Ceramic or steel?
I went with the Purple jockey wheel this year.
I know, I know, Red is faster.  But. . . Purple!




I went with two different sets this year, for my two road bikes.

The set pictured is the Omni Ti Ceramic
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222000899348?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I used them last year.  I had the black set.  The paint came off the corners, but the wheels themselves seem to be fine physically.  The bearings are crunchy, though.  I kept them, thinking I could replace the bearings at some point and reuse them.

For the Trek, with Ultegra, I got the Kactus Aluminum and Steel
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201384026130?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I haven't used these yet, but they seem fine, inexpensive, and I didn't see any negative reviews.

I know the Taxc wheels are highly rated, and maybe I'll give those a try at some point.
There are a lot of aluminum jockey wheels out there, so my decisions were based on customer reviews, previous experience with the Omnis, and how many were for sale, staying away from one-offs.
What's the difference between a 10 teeth and 11 teeth? Would either of them work on a 10 speed der?
An 11 tooth jockey wheel works on the 9, 10, and 11 speed bikes.  Campognolo generally uses 10 teeth.
A jockey wheel that states specifically that it's made for an 11 speed bike, should be slightly more narrow, compared to the 10 speed version, because the chain is more narrow, but generally speaking, an 11 tooth wheel will work with 10 and 11 speeds, and I would be surprised that a wheel that costs less than $40 has any actual size difference.

The upper jockey wheel is the Guide, and the lower is the Tension wheel.  Often, the Guide wheel will have a little bit of side to side play, which allows the chain to find its best spot on the cassette, and the play helps reduce noise.  

Most 11 tooth wheels are compatible with Sram and Shimano rear derailleurs.  Because the Sram requires a sleeve/shim on the upper, Guide pulley, for the bolt and because different manufacturers design their wheels slightly differently, each wheel (or set) I've used comes with a shim for the bolts.  The two I bought individually came with a shim for each wheel, the set only came with one shim, which I used on the Guide wheel.

Aluminum wheels are said to wear down the chain faster, and to be noisy.  My jockey wheels do have a reassuring hum to them, and I replace my chain each year, so I'm not too concerned.

Each group makes their own replacement wheels, so if you're ever in doubt, you can simply buy what's already on the bike
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-jockey-wheels-road/rp-prod28108

Or buy an upgrade from a website that vets their products
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-jockey-wheels/rp-prod90475

Different sizes don't necessarily dictate what speed your bike is, though.  The standard is 11 tooth for Sram/Shimano, but you could use a 10 tooth - pulling the chain slightly away from the cassette, and you can, of course, experiment with 17 teeth:
https://www.westernbikeworks.com/product/ceramic-speed-oversized-pulley-system-shimano-10-11-spd

If you changed the size of your wheel, though, you may need to adjust the size of your chain.  It's easy enough to count the teeth on your bike, and the wheels come off relatively easily with an allen wrench; just be warned that they're absolutely filthy.  I spotted my cracked wheels last year when I was servicing my RD after I pulled it off my bike.

JP has mentioned his use of the friction facts test he purchased which tested quite a few wheels available today:
http://www.friction-facts.com/test-results/individual-reports/derailleur-pulley-efficiency-test

The ebay sellers don't always have accurate descriptions, which is why I went with Manufacturer names I either knew, or could easily identify, where what I needed was stated in the title and the full description.
Ding dong....who is it?
http://road.cc/content/news/219825-bradley-wiggins-claims-marginal-gains-are-rubbish
Thanks @Bruce van-Schalkwyk. Time to shop.
Thanks @Bruce van-Schalkwyk. Time to shop.
Phil,
   the larger the pulley wheel, the slower it turns.  Assuming consistent bearings and materials, the slower turning speed of the pulleys should result in lower frictional losses.  Check out CeramicSpeed, they are offering 19-tooth pulley kits and a 13 upper and 17 lower pulley for Shimano 9100.  (yes, they also include a purpose-built cage)

    With Tacx pulleys (as well as a fair number of aftermarket pulleys) they come with spacers that seem to work with most 9, 10, and 11-speed derailleurs,  even the 11-tooth ones.  When I was running Campy 10-speed, I put 11-tooth Tacx pulleys on the derailleur and it worked fine.  I'm sure you could do the same if you have Shimano or SRAM ten-speed.

    I want to give a bit more explanation to the upper and lower pulleys.  On indexed shifting systems, which we all use, the upper pulley is either narrower or has lateral play to accommodate less than perfect alignment.  Seems that many of the native pulleys (shimano on shimano, etc), the upper pulley has lateral play (float), but most of the aftermarket pulleys I've seen utilize a narrower pulley.

    Yes, I'm a fan of Tacx pulleys.  I have them on all my derailleur-equipped bikes, even put their 10-tooth pulleys on the six-speed derailleur of the trail-a-bike I have for my kids.  (the benefits of reducing friction for people with low power output is greater than it is for pros)  Reading through Friction-Facts test data, I think Tacx ceramic pulleys hit the sweet spot of price and performance.  
Bicycling Magazine selects several Giant models (including a disc brake model!) for their editor's choice awards 2017. http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/recommended/2017-road-bike-editors-choice-winners/slide/15
While I joined Strava in 2015, I only uploaded 3 rides since then. I figured I was using training peaks, and I wasn't interested in strava segments. I figure I would give it another go.

I assume the best way to upload from a Garmin device is to set up auto sync Garmin Connect. How do you guys "label" your rides? Do you really log into to Strava after every ride and write a witty label? Seems like a lot of work.

How can I achieve Eloy level of Hotness if I don't add labels. Who am I kidding. I will never attain that level of hotness
1) strava will let you bulk upload all your past files if you want
2) dude, it's 2017... #wittyridenamesoritdidn'thappen
3) also, hashtags
my phone alerts me via the strava app that my ride has been uploaded.  editing of ride name, if it is to be done, is done on the cell phone.  i use the paired accounts feature on my wahoo elemnt.  the ride auto-uploads to strava and trainingpeaks (and ridewithgps?!) when within range of my wifi at home, or when connected via bluetooth to my phone.
Jules and I fundamentally disagree, it's 2017, and we're all adults here and ride the rides you want, and track it or not, who cares. Sometimes it is fun to ride without data and just enjoy the wind in your hair and turning the pedals.  
Yacks does this all the time (whenever my Cateye computer craps the bed & I need to get a warranty)....oh look what just arrived !!!

Jules and I fundamentally disagree, it's 2017, and we're all adults here and ride the rides you want, and track it or not, who cares. Sometimes it is fun to ride without data and just enjoy the wind in your hair and turning the pedals.  
Tell the truth Dan; you were tossing your hair in the wind and enjoying your subjective "sensations" when a Boston Robotics dog wandered by and you t-boned it in a fit of luddite rage.

#westillloveyou
Dude, those Boston Dynamics people abuse their robots so much, I wouldn't want to be part of that. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6UsYcTxpK8
You sure it isn't that you just don't look a bit too much like Kevin to feel safe...?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkv-_LqTeQA
Jules and I fundamentally disagree, it's 2017, and we're all adults here and ride the rides you want, and track it or not, who cares. Sometimes it is fun to ride without data and just enjoy the wind in your hair and turning the pedals.  

This one is for you Whitey...
At the last Prospect race while "sprinting" in the finale...my right cleat started sliding out of my Time Expresso pedal.  Upon examination of said pedal this morning I discovered a chunk of pedal was cracked/worn down/missing.  Now I've had these pedals for about 2 years...I'm thinking this is about its product cycle?


^ That's lousy, go for warranty
well....12 month warranty sooooo
but I have a pair of their cheaper pedals with the steel axles (the busted ones have titanium
)  so thinking I'll just swap out the pedal bodies tonight thus maintaining the nice light spindles....just don't ride anywhere near me for the 1st race just in case

I want to convert one of my older Clincher wheelsets to tubeless for CX. I have on older pair of neuvation as well a manic kysirium équipe. My impression from doing a little research is that most clincher wheelsets can we converted to cx tubeless with a stans strip and sealant. 

Anyone have experience with trying to do any of the above?

thanks!
Brendan is probably your guy for this. 

I did some research until I realized the probability that I would end up spraying sealant all over my apartment, is very strongly correlated to the probability my wife would stab me to death. So I decided to avoid stabbing. 
Patrick I haven't tried to convert those rims.  Tubeless conversion is all about the specific tire and specific rim combination.  There is no uniform standard for tubeless so best you can do is find out if someone on the internet has done your specific tire and rim combo successfully before.

You'll need: (1) tubeless valves; (2) sealant; (3) tubeless rim tape.

Here's a good video guide on converting non-tubeless wheelset to tubeless.

Some of Mavics wheels are tubeless compatible. Newer Neuvation is too.  What year are yours?

Are you going to buy tubeless tires, or put regular tires on?  Non-tubeless tires on non-tubeless rims can sometimes work.  About as well as buying lottery tickets as an investment.


PatrickG said:
I want to convert one of my older Clincher wheelsets to tubeless for CX. I have on older pair of neuvation as well a manic kysirium équipe. My impression from doing a little research is that most clincher wheelsets can we converted to cx tubeless with a stans strip and sealant. 

Anyone have experience with trying to do any of the above?

thanks!
Patrick,
     The thing with CX tires is the low pressure  Burping can be an issue.  If you're hip to try, yes to the tape (essential), make sure you have the proper width, and make sure to do two wraps, even though CX pressure is low enough you could theoretically get away with one.  

After getting the tire on, you probably should try to glue one or both beads to the rim.  The sealant can do the trick, so buy way more than enough--if you're doing it now, you'll probably need to replace the sealant by the start of 'cross season, so get a jug.  This means putting sealant between the tire and the bead, it's messy, so you'll need to clean up both the floor and the wheel afterwards.  

And, of course, you'll need the big hit of pressure to get the tire to seat.  If you have a CO2, that could do it, but any other means that can push lots of air in quick is fine.
Oh god people are still talking about tubeless. 


Adler rode a smart race 
twoyacks said:
Adler rode a smart race 
Is NYV even still a going concern?
Hey team.  I'm debating between a Garmin Edge 520 and Lezyne Super GPS.  Not looking for anything too fancy - just a good quality head unit that gets the basics right: consistently reads my PM (Stages Gen 2; ANT+ and BT), HR (Garmin; ANT+), and has a solid GPS.

Looks like the Lezyne display isn't as refined, but seems like a great quality device for the price - ~$100 less than the Edge 520.  I've had a Garmin Edge 800 (two, actually) and a Garmin Forerunner 910XT and all have underperformed in terms of picking up my PM.  Haven't been thrilled with Garmin's customer service as well recently, so thinking about steering away from them.  

Does anyone have experience with either device - or comparable - and can offer some insight?  Thanks!