Having some BB issues/questions. Got a new BB installed a couple of weeks ago and notice a small click in the back end of my pedal stroke (figured it may be some dirt or grime from a nasty ride). Took my cranks off and getting the spindle out was tight. Eventually got the spindle out, cleaned it up, regressed everything and put it all back together and tightened it back up to specialized’s recommended 25nM and the cranks could barely spin. I backed it off to the point where the bolt feels tight enough that I’m. It worried it’ll come loose through riding and the cranks can move nicely but not sure if this is a normal thing with a new BB or if something is off. Thoughts?

@Matt Budofsky  What type of BB and crankset?

Also, did you check you pedals and cleats?  Sometimes dirt can get in there even if they haven't been removed in awhile. 

Specialized OSBB (really a bb30) with s-works cranks attached to a quarq dzero spider. I never had this issue prior to the new BB. 

AndrewJohnson said:

Stages is offering factory install on GRX Crank for $228.00 I run Stages on both my road bikes and track bike. I have GRX crank on my CX bike, and this seems like a good price to get power on my CX bike. Plus while it's down for the count (Di2 wire issue - I had to pull my downtube cable out and give it to Amy since her bunny chewed hers on her road bike) for a few weeks, and I'm not heavily using it right now, this would be the time. So any thoughts if it would be beneficial? I've always though of Cross as 700W, 0W, 700W, 0W, 700W, 0W... etc, etc... 

Andrew,

I'm a fan of power for CX.  I'd even like to have it on my track bike.

So, why?  Because I can take a global view and look at my normalized power and HR and get a sense of how much I sucked.  I can break it down and see what laps were actually my strongest.  I can go deeper and see how well I powered up or over a particular course difficulty.  

Go watch some Hambini videos and then weep. BB30 is, ah… merde

Did some more digging on random forums and I think it was the specialized preload ring clamping the bearings when tightened Took it off  and put the plastic spacers that came with the BB on, tightened everything back up and things are running smoothly again (no lateral movement, no click, just a nice smooth stroke)

Matt Budofsky said:

Did some more digging on random forums and I think it was the specialized preload ring clamping the bearings when tightened Took it off  and put the plastic spacers that came with the BB on, tightened everything back up and things are running smoothly again (no lateral movement, no click, just a nice smooth stroke)

Whew!

I've been looking into getting a derailleur hanger alignment tool.  Park makes two very nice ones.  But they're both kind of big.

I just came across one from WolfTooth components that is small enough to fit in my toolbox.  Might not be as easy to work, but I'mr really liking the small size

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/tools/products/pack-hanger-alignment-tool?variant=14093185220643

@mugwump I've got one of the Park Tools and it's pretty dang easy to use, but I'm really liking how Wolf did theirs; it makes much more sense to use the hub axle than the rim as a reference point.  The setup seems like a bit much, but it's a tool that should be needed a whole lot anyway (I may use mine 2-3 times/year).

Would recommend the Park over the WolfTooth, unless size is a major consideration. I own a few tools that do not fit into any tool box. The Park seems a bit more universal and faster setup and use (is the one I own) -- Ultimately, both will do the job fine. 

$228 is pretty minor in the grand scheme of bicycling gear costs. I say go for it, even if just to see your power numbers go from 0 to 700w for 45 minutes at a time 😅

mugwump said:

AndrewJohnson said:

Stages is offering factory install on GRX Crank for $228.00 I run Stages on both my road bikes and track bike. I have GRX crank on my CX bike, and this seems like a good price to get power on my CX bike. Plus while it's down for the count (Di2 wire issue - I had to pull my downtube cable out and give it to Amy since her bunny chewed hers on her road bike) for a few weeks, and I'm not heavily using it right now, this would be the time. So any thoughts if it would be beneficial? I've always though of Cross as 700W, 0W, 700W, 0W, 700W, 0W... etc, etc... 

Andrew,

I'm a fan of power for CX.  I'd even like to have it on my track bike.

So, why?  Because I can take a global view and look at my normalized power and HR and get a sense of how much I sucked.  I can break it down and see what laps were actually my strongest.  I can go deeper and see how well I powered up or over a particular course difficulty.  

Yeah basically why I never did it, and don't feel I MUST do it. I'd rather get Amy a PM on her road bike... lol

Power meter on the cross bicycle is amazing and crazy helpful for training.

Not very helpful on races, sometimes not even that helpful to measure a race's effort, I've found HR is a better measure for races, but, again, for training, power is the most useful tool.

Definitely lean on power on longer gravel rides/climbs, where it too, it is an amazing tool to measure and meter effort.

If you are serious about results, power really is no longer optional in training or racing… unless you can train 20+ hours a week

“Specialized, Cannondale & Trek are ditching pressfit bottom brackets…”

How is this not front page news?

Jules said:

“Specialized, Cannondale & Trek are ditching pressfit bottom brackets…”

How is this not front page news?

They are?

The source is Hambini, so our milage may vary - he hasn't seemed one to bait clicks with bogus news before.

Didn't Specialized switch back to threaded BBs on the SL7 Tarmac and the Aethos? Vaguely remembering people rejoicing/grumbling in frustration about this when the bikes were released

Yes, Specialized has threaded BBs on the new Tarmacs, Aethos, and Crux. Trek has been using threaded T47 (or whatever "standard" they created) for a couple of years now. The 2022 Cannondale Synapse, announced last week(ish), has a threaded bottom bracket. 

No question threaded is easier to maintain, but worry not, they will all need a different proprietary tool to install/remove.

Lucky for us, all these bikes have increased compliance 

Jules, I am saddened that you keep pushing Hambini -- just a matter of time until you realize what a misogynist he is.

eloy said:

Jules, I am saddened that you keep pushing Hambini -- just a matter of time until you realize what a misogynist he is.

His misogyny doesn't diminish his technical expertise. I'm not hiring him, or recommending anyone invite him to dinner. There is literally nobody doing anything close to what he is in terms of technical analysis of bottom brackets & aero, so my choices are severely constrained.

@eloy

thanks for that update.  I must have missed it.  

Trek seems to be favoring T47 for their new standard, while Specialized is using BSA and Cannondale's Synapse is also BSA.    

From my perspective, the T47 makes more sense.  Large size is easy to make lighter, easier to build with oversized frame shapes, larger bearings in bottom bracket should spin easier, and a larger-diameter thru axle should be both lighter and stiffer. 

If anyone ever needs to give their significant other a gift idea, the Rider Box is one of the best gifts my wife has ever given me. I'm not sure which subscription she got but it seems to come every few months and is loaded with new products to try. There are more hits than duds. It's like a little holiday every time it comes. https://www.therunnerbox.com/product/riderbox/

I think I've seen some folks rock a seasucker for cars without a roof rack. Any opinions on pros/cons?

David Yang said:

I think I've seen some folks rock a seasucker for cars without a roof rack. Any opinions on pros/cons?

I've never tried one, but they seem to work fine.  I know a number of people who have one.  There are some apocryphal stories about excessive speeding causing a SeaSucker to lift off a sunroof's glass.  But, so long as you go under 80mph, you should be fine.

I think the Talon is the kind of thing you could put in a bag and ride to the car rental place with, then put on the roof of whatever car you rent and drive home.  

Used one with Jeff Condon and Anthony Ott during our Alps trip. Worked great (as long as car is not covered with grime before you put on cups). Seems like an ideal and secure way to transport your bike if you have to rent a different car each time. 

A few years back, Mattie pulled up to SupercrossCup in a Lotus Elan with his bike Sea Suckered to the roof. Was pretty cool

Highly recommend the seasucker. I wish I would have bought mine years ago. I have the single talon and would likely buy another one at some point.

JP is not correct about speed limits, you can definitely go over 80mph with it attached to sunroof glass. I certainly have. 

They are clearly overbuilt, which gives you tons of confidence, feels like the car roof would fail way before a seasucker's suction cup.

I would suggest the single talon, as they are super easy to install and remove, and, as mentioned, small enough to put in a bag, ride to the car, or to throw anywhere in the car.

Well, to be fair Seasucker recommends keeping it below 80mph but that's probably to err on the side of caution.

Sweet, thanks, seems like little to no downside then.

Patrick, I remember that. I think the craziest SupercrossCup transportation method I saw was Alyosha on a Vespa or equivalent scooter with his cross bike mounted on it riding up the Palisades Parkway. That was the year it was like -20deg with like 40mph winds.

If you are getting a Seasucker and plan on going 80mph , get yourself a PBA card also

Roll able mudgaurd
https://youtu.be/V-FedacYRLw