GregHoge said:

mugwump said:

GregHoge said:

@mugwump I've got a printer.  If you'll be out riding on Sunday I should be able to get them printed before then.

Awesome!  Thanks.  I love it.

What's your take on the flexibility of the material as suggested above by Jules?  If you have a printer, you must be playing with it a good bit.

There's many different kinds of filaments you can print with, including some that are combined with carbon fiber and wood.  But a lot of a 3d printed part's performance depends on part design, how the part is positioned on the printer, and the printer settings.  For a part like this (a dust cap), the snaps only need to work once - for installation (at least that's my understanding).  A standard PLA filament will work.  If it was a piece that needed to be repeatedly snapped in and out, then you'd want a material that's a bit more robust, like nylon.

Anyway, I've got the dust caps printed up.  I'll bring them with me tomorrow if you'll be out riding.

Thanks for the insight.  looking forward to testing them out.

Sadly, I can't make it tomorrow morning.  

Handy hack for Cyclo cross

https://theradavist.com/2022/03/bottle-cage-tip-trick-hack/

This 2 nail-brush chain cleaning hack is nice...
https://youtu.be/KM6mzE5lQ0w

@JohnMalcolmson

It's only nice if you don't have to purchase them.  Once you're into purchasing mode, there are a number of purpose-built brushes that do the same more easily.  Finish Line has a Grunge Brush for $13.  I just picked up a set of cleaning tools from Lidl, which includes a similar brush in a kit that costs $10.  

I also take issue with the steps.   Yes to degreaser as step 1.  Yes to brushing as step 2.  Yes to hot soapy water as step three . But you need a fourth step before drying.  Cold, clean water.

And if you're a fan of Squirt lube, you can actually lube the chain while wet.  Squirt is water based.  

That grunge brush looks pretty good ,I'm going to pick one up

Adam N still has the best drying method I've come across; isopropyl alcohol bath.

mugwump said:

@JohnMalcolmson

It's only nice if you don't have to purchase them.  Once you're into purchasing mode, there are a number of purpose-built brushes that do the same more easily.  Finish Line has a Grunge Brush for $13.  I just picked up a set of cleaning tools from Lidl, which includes a similar brush in a kit that costs $10.  

I also take issue with the steps.   Yes to degreaser as step 1.  Yes to brushing as step 2.  Yes to hot soapy water as step three . But you need a fourth step before drying.  Cold, clean water.

And if you're a fan of Squirt lube, you can actually lube the chain while wet.  Squirt is water based.  

JFC, it can still be nice JP.

JohnMalcolmson said:

mugwump said:

@JohnMalcolmson

JFC, it can still be nice JP.

It can.  

When I watched the video, I thought 'great idea.' and then I started to think of what I had around.  And that's when I get in trouble.  

I'm helping a neighbor strip his cracked frame.

But I need some help.  I've got to remove the Shimano thru-axle crank, and I don't have a tool to unscrew  the crank arm adjustment cap (I don't own any Shimano thru-axle cranks).  Any suggestions on how to remove this without dedicated tool? 

you will need the tool, amazon has one for $6
Shimano Crank assembly FC-960/760 Ultegra TL-FC16 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0013B2VDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_73RVRMWA9B3JE79M2HV0

@mugwump you can try a pin spanner, but the tool it pretty cheap.

GregHoge said:

@mugwump you can try a pin spanner, but the tool it pretty cheap.

Tried a pin spanner for BB's I have in my tool collection. DIdn't work.  

They are cheap.  Guess it should be added.

As we're going to be required to have transponders on our bikes at Prospect Park races, and probably moron the future, I reached out to a friend who works as a WorldTour mechanic to see how they do it.

I'd noticed many forks have a black or red sleeve on one fork leg which appeared to be housing the transponder.  I figured it was a cut length of bicycle tube.  So I asked about that.

 Cut sections of inner tube are indeed being used by WorldTour mechanics.  Some like the black of butyl, some like the red of latex.  Quick-Step is apparently putting the transponders inside the forks for aerodynamics, though Specialized claims to have tested them, and found they don't adversely affect aerodynamics.  

THere's nothing holding the transponders other than that length of tube.  So be on the lookout for cuts, as they'll eventually grow and destroy the sleeve, something you don't want to have occur during a race.

How are they fitting it in the fork?  It seems too big to fit in the steerer.

do not attempt to put inside the fork 

GregHoge said:

How are they fitting it in the fork?  It seems too big to fit in the steerer.

I figured it out.  Perhaps a translation issue.  Looking at a few photos, I think he meant on the inside face of the fork legs, as in between the legs and the wheel.  I wouldn't be surprised if having it there adversely affects aerodynamics, as it could make for more turbulent air with the spokes spinning close to the fork blades.

As Eloy says, don't try it.  

lol.  That makes more sense.

Transponders? So like, extra watts strapped to your bike? Vroom Vroom!

Aren't there requirements on exactly where the transponder is supposed to be placed on the bike? If not, how do you judge a "photo" finish? I guess putting it as far forward/low on your fork is ideal.

They will still look at the camera to confirm the top spots, the stakes are lower for the the lower race places.

Typically you'll see the transponders around the top 25% of the right fork blade, some riders have them lower. Some events ask for them to be velcroed to our ankle. 

You can clearly see them on the bikes from Flanders, wrapped in a tube cutout:

Not that anyone asked and ridiculous that I’m bringing this up at least a decade too late, but I replaced a set of traditional canti brakes with cross specific 84mm TRP v-brakes for my old cross/gravel bike and the performance difference is kind of nuts compared to the traditional cantis they replaced. The only issue is rear tire clearance a few mm from the cable so I'm waiting on a 95mm set and hoping the SRAM levers have enough pull without bottoming out. 

Highly recommend switching to v-brakes if you are still on an old bike without disc brakes.

Also took a page out of James Reeder's book of gravel secrets and threw on some latex Vittoria tubes (I know I know, cave man tech) and the ride couldn't be nicer.

Anyone had experience with Pitlock bolt lockdowns? Was considering the ballbearing/glue hack, but this seems easier. 
https://thebestbikelock.com/wheel-locks-and-seat-locks/pitlock-pit-stopper-review/

I'm contemplating recovering a few old saddles I have.

I've found a few decent-seeming tutorials
https://lifeisabeautifuldetail.com/blog/saddle-recovering-part2
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-recover-an-old-bicycle-seat/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqJRGnnJU00

And I can get a kit from Leh Cycling (he did the video above).
https://lehcycling.com/products/saddle-recover-kit?variant=39340386320577

As I want to start with something that could end up on a commuter bike, I'm wondering about sourcing a synthetic material.  Marine upholstery vinyl has been mentioned in a few tutorials, but I have no idea how well it resists abrasions.  So, I'm wondering if anyone has knowledge about different synthetic materials like whatever Microtex really is, in terms of how thick and how durable.

FWIW, the person who did the first tutorial recommends leather 1/32" thick.  That's about .8mm.

I think I can buy unknown quality marine vinyl for between $13-20 on eBay.

Thoughts?

You might want to reach out to Kissena Alum Kate - her brother manufactures outdoor gear (jackets, bags etc) and would probably be very helpful.

Leh seems like one option.  Another is a leather goods site I found in Ottawa.  They sell 12" x 24" pieces of leather 1.2-1.3mm thick for about $20.  I wrote them and they claim they can't find thinner.  They also sell the recommended Barge cement.  

I know there's leather repair/supply shops in the city.  While not bike oriented, they might be able to provide some guidance.

Looking for a carbon road bar recco, 42cm, long reach—90mm+, aero or round.

JohnMalcolmson said:

Looking for a carbon road bar recco, 42cm, long reach—90mm+, aero or round.

I've been looking at aero road bars, and it's hard to find any with a reach over 75mm.  I think that's with most bars these days.  

I think my FSA Energy Classic aluminum bars have an 80 or 84mm reach, and that's pretty long relative to what's common.

If you're looking for that long a reach, I think Deda's deep-drop alloy bars are about the only thing available these days.

https://dedaelementi.com/zero100-deep-handlebar

those deda looks sweet, but don’t appear aero, zipp makes some pretty long reach non aero bars too (is what I have on my road bike) will need a moment to find a link

88 reach:
Zipp SL-88 Service Course Handlebar https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00G23B9G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0AHAC0RAJ29MCAY97F2F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1