Clever, but... are we really so cool we need mudguards that are only deployed during the ride?

To look sharp, or not to look sharp. That is the question Jules.

JohnMalcolmson said:

To look sharp, or not to look sharp. That is the question Jules.

I will be the first to admit I made some questionable choices early in my cycling “career” all in the name of #looksharp… it never ended well, except perhaps for the photographer 😂

I was so excited to see the pedals get released this morning. I have a stages power meter, which is great, but I’m thinking this might be a better option if/when I get a second bike. 

Careful what you wish for. When I pull my bike down and the power meter battery is dead I just have to toss a new coin in (or pull one from my saddle bag)

if it’s rechargeable you’re going to be stuck waiting

Definitely a good point and a solid advantage of coin batteries. I tend to be forgetful when it comes to a longer battery life, like the 250 hours on my Stages (granted, it does warn me when the charge is getting low). 

I don’t want to have any more devices in my life I have to think about keeping charged. Some people have the mental bandwidth for that, but I do not.

While I like the idea of a power meter that can be transferred more easily than a crankset, I'd suggest waiting a bit before switching power meters.

I'd wait to see what problems are revealed by selling lots of pedals to users who don't care for their stuff as well as Wahoo employees.  And the same goes for the firmware.  

To me, that you have to stop to adjust the offset is a problem.  Currently, when I bring my Quarq outside, I spin the pedals backwards for four revolutions after 10-15 minutes.  Frequently, I do it before the start of a bike race as well.  However, once in a while, I forget those two, and look down at my computer 15 minutes into a bike race and see the numbers are way off from what I expected.  All I need to do is backpedal quickly to readjust the offset.  If I lived in a mountainous place, one where I was dealing with greater elevation differences than we have here, I'd want to be able to adjust at the top and bottom of mountains because of temperature variations. Maybe they'll fix this in an upcoming firmware update, maybe not.

I run Powertap P2 pedals and agree with @Jules, replaceable batteries is real nice.  I've forgotten to charge my Di2 at least half a dozen times in the 2-3 years I've had it, but whenever I can't pair my pedals, I just throw new batteries in and off I go.

As a counter to your point @mugwump, I've recently taken to just coasting with no feet clipped in for ~half a block while calibrating.  Probably not the safest, but I don't have to stop!

I tend to agree on the batteries vs re-charging, specially as the battery will degrade over time. I presume that wont be a blocker for most people.

The accuracy and quality of the pedals seems very high, the price seems fair, so yeah, it should be a good candidate for anyone considering a power meter.

Finding it very difficult to get a wheel set rebuild in a reasonable time frame. Keep hearing end of April. Currently waiting to hear back from Sun & Air and Hilltop.

Any local wheelbuilder recommendations? 

I've used Tijon for repairs and he has a wheel company , Give him a try

https://tunedby.square.site/

I was checking out the Ridley site and noticed that there is an option to configure bikes in your favorite colors. For a lark I mocked up a X-Night in Kissena colors. Looks pretty sweet

James Reeder said:

Finding it very difficult to get a wheel set rebuild in a reasonable time frame. Keep hearing end of April. Currently waiting to hear back from Sun & Air and Hilltop.

Any local wheelbuilder recommendations? 

I've got a truing stand, two dishing tools (should sell one), nipple spear, nipple driver, assortment of spoke wrenches and a tensiometer.  If you want to try, you can borrow the tools.  

Yes, I build.  Don't know if I should be putting my shingle out as a wheel builder.

PatrickGrehan said:

I was checking out the Ridley site and noticed that there is an option to configure bikes in your favorite colors. For a lark I mocked up a X-Night in Kissena colors. Looks pretty sweet

I was having fun with color mockups on an Ibis Hakka through the Pro Bike Supply website, when they still had frames

mugwump said:

James Reeder said:

Finding it very difficult to get a wheel set rebuild in a reasonable time frame. Keep hearing end of April. Currently waiting to hear back from Sun & Air and Hilltop.

Any local wheelbuilder recommendations? 

I've got a truing stand, two dishing tools (should sell one), nipple spear, nipple driver, assortment of spoke wrenches and a tensiometer.  If you want to try, you can borrow the tools.  

Yes, I build.  Don't know if I should be putting my shingle out as a wheel builder.

i'll have some questions for you on the next group ride

Rim-brake gravel bike that's not Canti' and takes up to 45mm tires.

https://cyclingtips.com/2022/02/rim-brakes-for-gravel-bikes-rob-english-and-cane-creek-say-yes-sort-of/

you can call them "not canti" but they are canti's

oh I totally wanna get in on this!

mugwump said:

Rim-brake gravel bike that's not Canti' and takes up to 45mm tires.

https://cyclingtips.com/2022/02/rim-brakes-for-gravel-bikes-rob-english-and-cane-creek-say-yes-sort-of/

Also , not available for the rest of us mortals 

eloy said:

you can call them "not canti" but they are canti's

To make it a cantilever, the pivot has to be below the rim.  So it's a direct-mount rim brake.

Speaking of English cycles, a Kissena alum, Norm, has a few. 

Damn, Norm has some sweet rides

PatrickGrehan said:

Damn, Norm has some sweet rides

Norm. Kiessena's Galahad. 

Anyone have a 3D printer, or access to one, or experience thereof?

I've been trying to source parts for my Speedplay Zeros and it seems that the dust caps are nearly impossible to find. However, someone posted what they purport are instructions to make them with a 3D printer.  

I"d love to know if these are indeed such instructions and what one would need to get these made.  Cost, time, etc.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4315806/files

mugwump said:

Anyone have a 3D printer, or access to one, or experience thereof?

I've been trying to source parts for my Speedplay Zeros and it seems that the dust caps are nearly impossible to find. However, someone posted what they purport are instructions to make them with a 3D printer.  

I"d love to know if these are indeed such instructions and what one would need to get these made.  Cost, time, etc.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4315806/files

Do they need to be flexible/rubbery? Generally 3d filament is pretty brittle. Hit me up via email if you want to chat.

@mugwump I've got a printer.  If you'll be out riding on Sunday I should be able to get them printed before then.

GregHoge said:

@mugwump I've got a printer.  If you'll be out riding on Sunday I should be able to get them printed before then.

Awesome!  Thanks.  I love it.

What's your take on the flexibility of the material as suggested above by Jules?  If you have a printer, you must be playing with it a good bit.

mugwump said:

GregHoge said:

@mugwump I've got a printer.  If you'll be out riding on Sunday I should be able to get them printed before then.

Awesome!  Thanks.  I love it.

What's your take on the flexibility of the material as suggested above by Jules?  If you have a printer, you must be playing with it a good bit.

There's many different kinds of filaments you can print with, including some that are combined with carbon fiber and wood.  But a lot of a 3d printed part's performance depends on part design, how the part is positioned on the printer, and the printer settings.  For a part like this (a dust cap), the snaps only need to work once - for installation (at least that's my understanding).  A standard PLA filament will work.  If it was a piece that needed to be repeatedly snapped in and out, then you'd want a material that's a bit more robust, like nylon.

Anyway, I've got the dust caps printed up.  I'll bring them with me tomorrow if you'll be out riding.