Posted By: John MalcolmsonOne point to note is they say riders 185lbs+ shouldn't use the Ti version. >:(
Cancellara and Evans use the Zero's.
I'm looking to purchase, any recco's where to buy?

John, a google search then click to the "shopping" tab, does an excellent job at finding online retailers from all corners of the globe. Also ebay natch.

Or you could go to Brickwell (I think we're still sponsored by them) and see if they carry them. You'll almost certainly pay more, but...

If someone needs a left Ti zero speedplay (in good condition, the right was damaged in a crash and could not be repaired), I have it somewhere.

Flanders tire choices...25mm seem to be a universal choice and the following caption says one rider, at least, had his tires pumped to just 94 psi.

http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/04/road/flanders-tech-horses-for-courses_166785/attachment/img_0041

I used to be a 120 psi guy on my clinchers, but these days I often go just 100 psi. From what I've been reading, it's the way to go, and I haven't had pinch flat problems. And I weigh 170lbs.

you weigh 170?

i'm sure much of that is in the hair, of course

seriously though - people pump their tires too high

Maybe this is going to be a really \"duh\" answer, but I can\'t seem to figure it out.

I\'m trying to get this brake pad aligned properly. I bought new pads after I noticed I was in need. I removed the front one and realized the wear was really uneven, which explained the crappy front braking I was experiencing. After trying and trying again, i can\'t figure out how to get this thing parallel to the braking surface. Any suggestions or is there something really simple I am missing here?

http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee455/mperlberg/brakes.jpg

Has anyone used it? If so, what are your comments? (I know the Ultegra version is on its way).

I rode it for about 2 miles once. Unbelievable. Truly push-button shifting, front and rear. Don't know about long-term ownership considerations, but the shifting speed and precision are just amazing, even under high chain tension.

please post your tech/gear questions in the tech/gear thread

http://kissena.info/forum/comments.php?DiscussionID=87&page=2#Item_26

it makes for a nicely condensed collection of our past knowledge/opinions on bicycle equipment

Re: Brickwell

20% off Cannondale - that ended when Cannondale removed the ability of the reps to give that discount out. The best bet is to contact Alex at Brickwell - alex@brickwell.com
Eric

Mike, I deliberately don't have pads parallel to the rim. I have the front of the pad (front being closest to the front of the bike) toed in ever so slightly. The theory is that this touches the rim first and then as it grips 'pulls' the rest of the pad onto the rim. I have noticed improvements in braking modulation on carbon rims (no pulsing or grabbing) but not on alloy rims (however it does cut squealing on alloy rims).

To set up I simply have the pad holder bolt lose so that full range of motion of the pad is available. Slide a credit card under the back of the pad. Adjust into position. Pull the brake level hard to keep into position to create the toe in effect. Tighten bolt.

It works great, but with one niggle: After a couple of months of use the toe in will have worn away and the pad will now be parallel to the rim, necessitating a repeat of the above, but it only takes 10 mins.

Stephane RE:Di2

I've used it for the last 12 months and I think it's fantastic. I was a Campagnolo afficionado for 25+ years, but playing with Di2 made me switch to Shimano and I have subsequently I've put Ultegra/105 on another bike.

For general training on the road and certainly on the dreaded wind trainer I don't think it offers any benefit whatsoever. Where it shines is in hard group rides and especially races. The shifts are flawless. Since setting it up I have had to adjust it ZERO times, even though I have used 3 or 4 different wheels in it. I have charged it twice as each charge lasts 800 hours of shifting (that's a LOT of miles).
The shifts are lightening fast, especially the front shift - that just works perfectly every time. I also like the auto-trim feature on the FD (that is very neat).The shifts are fast under heavy load too - such as the point where a climb begins to flatten at the top: you can just bang it onto the big ring.

There is only one downside: even though the levers are in the same place as the manual shift levers - they are not so tactile, which is a problem in winter when wearing thick gloves. I find myself pressing the wrong one, or both. That's the only issue I can think of.

Installation is easy too. I did my own. Shimano have a full video available on youtube.

Re dura ace electronic:

I cannot and probably never will be able to afford this thing, but it sounds really cool. I do have some worries about reliability issues. Maybe they have been worked out with newer versions. but let me share a brief story....

I have done with "triathlon tour" race a few times. It consists of 1 sprint triathlon on friday, 2 olympic distance races on Saturday, and a half iron on sunday. Overall time wins. Last year dude has a huge lead going into Sunday, something like 10 minutes. They do time trial starts. about 10 miles into the bike is a wicked climb. His dura ace electronic group craps out in the 39x25 and he can't shift it out. I end up passing him and see spinning his ass off while i rocket by him in the 53x12 on a long long downhill. Never see him again. He looses first place and a few grand, and falls all the way out of the money.

I will probably never find myself in that position, but it sucks to loose races or race poorly due to mechanicals. Then again, mechanicals have always been part of the game so maybe this is just a different type of mechanical that we'll be dealing with in the future.

Thanks for your comments. The frame builder told me the difference in price between the Di2 and the DA 7900 would be $1,250 (installed). If the insurance pays well for my totalled Ti Legend (I'll know in a few days), I'll get the Di2. If not, I'll have to sell my Exogrid frame! Since I'm not sure my body (especially my left knee) will let me ride next year, I might as well ride this system soon before it's too late!
Here is a picture of Bill (in his Jersey) with the Exogrid bike on the right of this enormous picture.

A little update on my experience in case anyone is considering using this setup:

I decided on Hutchinson Fusion3 Tubeless.

Getting the tires mounted took incredible hulk hand strength. Seriously, it was hard and my hands hurt really bad. I put about 20-25 ml of sealant in each tire and inflated with a CO2 canister. One tire took 2 attempts, the other snapped in on the first try. I'm not sure if I put enough sealant in, but for now it seems to be holding just fine. I guess I will find out when (if) puncture. I've started carrying a canister of Hutchinson Fair-Air Tubeless repair stuff in my jersey pocket in case of a flat to avoid the messy repair.

http://www.bicyclebuys.com/pumps/AirInflators/0603138/goog

On the road they feel really great. They hold air just fine, I've been surprised to find them fully inflated after a few days of riding. I raced them at Branchbrook, Battenkill, and FBF with no issues for the tires - not exactly great pavement at any of those places either. The ride is certainly more "plush" feeling than traditional clinchers, and cornering feels nice.

I'm actually a little surprised at the quality of the ultegra wheels. The rear when very out out true after a few races, and there was a spoke that was completely loose after battenkill. (I guess battenkill can do that to any wheel). I trued them up to the best of my ability but still need to get them on a proper truing stand for fine tuning. I've never had this happen to a wheel so quickly, but then again I've never done as much hard riding as I've been doing this year. Maybe a QC issue or just a fluke, not sure.

Hope that helps anyone who might find themselves in the market for a set of these.

Mike

Hey all,

Question:

Cannondale sells complete bikes and frame only options. For the CAAD 9 series, you can by a frame / fork or you can get a complete build, they call these "CAAD 9-6, CAAD 9-5, etc."

There are a few people who strip the CAAD 9-6 and CAAD 9-5 builds and part them out on ebay.

Is there any difference in the actual frame besides the color schemes? Would a CAAD 9-6 frame be the same frame as if I bought a frame only? Some people think the frame only is in fact a nicer frame than what they stick under a tiagra equipped complete build.

Thoughts?

Mike

the difference can be in the fork steerer - carbon or aluminum

Eric

SHould be the same frame. But do note whether or not the frame comes with a standard threaded bottom bracket or BB30. Currently,my preference is for the BB30. Lighter bottom brackets, lighter cranks (and if you get the c'dale hollowgram, lighter and stiffer still). Even if you get the Wheels Mfg Delrin cups, you're still rolling on larger bearings and a lighter overall weight.

Im old school. I put an adapter in....

Posted By: mperlbergHey all,

Question:

Cannondale sells complete bikes and frame only options. For the CAAD 9 series, you can by a frame / fork or you can get a complete build, they call these "CAAD 9-6, CAAD 9-5, etc."

There are a few people who strip the CAAD 9-6 and CAAD 9-5 builds and part them out on ebay.

Is there any difference in the actual frame besides the color schemes? Would a CAAD 9-6 frame be the same frame as if I bought a frame only? Some people think the frame only is in fact a nicer frame than what they stick under a tiagra equipped complete build.

Thoughts?

Mike

besides the ultra (alum crown and steerer) or premium (full carbon) and bb30/not bb30 bottom bracket, same thing. all caad 10s are the same.

Posted By: eragotIm old school. I put an adapter in....

i'm quite vain and did the same so i could match my entire group.

but are there 180mm hollowgram cranksets?

I just installed a set of Wheels Manufacturing Adapter cups that take a BB30 bottom bracket to fit a SRAM 24mm thru-axle crank. They're pretty light, 15g, pretty simple, and seem to work. It's quite a bit lighter than having a sleeve pressed in then using a bottom bracket. There's also a Shimano version. Won't work with Campy cranks.

http://wheelsmfg.com/content/section/31/67/

Posted By: mugwumpI just installed a set of Wheels Manufacturing Adapter cups that take a BB30 bottom bracket to fit a SRAM 24mm thru-axle crank. They're pretty light, 15g, pretty simple, and seem to work. It's quite a bit lighter than having a sleeve pressed in then using a bottom bracket. There's also a Shimano version. Won't work with Campy cranks.

http://wheelsmfg.com/content/section/31/67/

campy makes UT cups that press straight into bb30 cups (and pf30). these go in lieu of the traditional threaded ut cups. and 175 is the longest you can get hollowgrams in, at least current production.

Hey guys.... is this bike:

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2009/06/29/1246273774047-1jrdw9icqi2nu-500-90-500-70.jpg

going to match this jersey?

http://spasport.com/2011-BikeReg-KOM-Kit-3D.gif

Because it is sitting in my living room

somebody decided to play with their credit card instead of training with us in the am.
Must be nice to sleep in.

9 CAADs should be enough.

Posted By: mperlbergHey guys.... is this bike ... going to match this jersey? ... Because it is sitting in my living room

oy, nice machine! that's good for at least an extra 50W right?

Posted By: Jeffrey White9 CAADs should be enough.

Michael Perlberg stars in . . . "2 Many Caads!"

I have these Ultegra 6700 tubeless wheels already

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/wheels/road_wheels/product.-code-WH-6700.-type-.wh_road.html

I just got these RS80s on my new bike:

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/wheels/road_wheels/product.-code-WH-RS80-C24-CL.-type-.wh_road.html

To me, they seem very similar. The RS80s are about 130 grams lighter based on claimed weight. They have some sort of "carbon alloy" thing going on but I'm not really sure what it is. I guess if i build them up with a lightweight tube / tire combo I could save a bit of weight but not that much really.

Any reason to keep them? Or should I just go ahead and sell them off.

Mike

The rim is alloy that is manufactured into very thin rim shape. The rest of the rim strength comes from covering the rim in carbon.
The advantage is that you get a wheel that is as strong as a traditional alloy clincher but lighter.
Also they don't cover the brake track area with carbon - so you get the benefits of alloy rim braking.

Basically it is the rim from a Dura Ace C24 mated to an ultegra hub.

In my mind that would make them a better wheel than the Ultegra 6700 wheels (although these are also very, very good).

I largely agree with Ian.

Aerodynamically, they seem about the same. 24mm and 23mm rim heights. 16 front spokes, 20 rear. The hubs are probably the same. The lighter weight gives an advantage to the new wheels. Though the lighter weight may mean they are slightly less durable. I don't think the tubeless is that big a deal, and for racing, it appears from tests that a good racing clincher and a latex tube is a faster combination than a tubeless tire and goop. If you're someone who flats regularly, or likes the security of lower pressure in your tires, then maybe the tubeless would be better.

The plus side of getting rid of wheels you haven't ridden is they will fetch a better price than a wheelset that has been used.