Kissena Forum Archive

Bicycle Tech/Gear Discussion Thread

8105 comments · 108281 views
^Interesting idea Brendan.  I'll try partially pressing it in and see if it spins smoother.
for Quarq Power Meter Users:  
new firmware as of 8/13/14, for all modern, aka post cinquo models
  • Activates accelerometer cadence in all power meters with an LED and CR2032 battery. Accelerometer cadence will switch on automatically when a magnet is not present.
  • Table added for multipoint, active (10K) temperature compensation. Active temperature compensation is installed in the Quarq ELSA RS and SRAM XX1 power meter models.
  • ANT+ messaging changes to support temperature compensation calibration.
  • Additional reset mode added.
you no longer need a magnet on the chain stay. 

new ones have temperature compensation.  old ones can be retrofitted.

Quarq just confirmed for me (via email, over the weekend) that the magnets are also no longer necessary for those running some of the CR2025 batteries. Plus "stay tuned" for a 10k temp upgrade for non Ripken/Elsa models. I've always feared the magnet because on a gnarly chain drop it can be one more thing that adds to the chaos of the moment.
I'm at the point of my cycling progression that I need a work stand. I have been holding out for a very long time due to the usual New York apartment space constraints, but at long last I've attained the status of "minimally capable wrench." So it has finally become financially and logistically worthwhile to procure a proper work stand.

Does anyone out there in Kissena-land have a work stand that they absolutely love? That can be broken down cleanly, quickly, and easily for storage, say under a bed? 

I would love to hear about people's systems and practices on the topic. Particularly those who feel they successfully make it work in the spacial reality of New York apartment living.
I have this thing. Super practical, easy to store, good price, but yeah, kinda big.

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1030266_-1_400152__400152

Performance has a pretty hardcore return policy, basically full refund/exchange at any time for any reason.

A teammate (Charlie Lapunzina) broke my first of these stands, trying to get rid of a super stuck bottom bracket. Performance sent me a new one without issue.

image
I started with one of these but it was too much work to remove wheels and the pin for stabilizing it took an ox to get in & out.

Recently I've been using this one and I like it quite a bit.  The big advantage is the low legs (harder for kids to knock into) and the profile fits well either under a couch/bed or in a corner if I don't want to collapse it.  I especially like the combination clamp; it's both a big cam and a fine tooth so it's easy to *really* tighten something in there as well as toss something in & out quickly if you don't need it to be super stable.

image
I bought Feedback Sports' Ultralight work stand several years ago.  Love it.  Light.  Folds small.  Stable when out.

http://feedbacksports.com/shop/Ultralight-Work-Stand-P2.aspx


I got it because the Blackburn one I had, similar in setup to Jules', took up too much room folded and wasn't stable enough.  The former was probably more important to me than the latter.  I also got the bag.

Since I've had it, the thing has been out basically all the time.  not sure I could find the bag if I wanted to.  It's out because I learned (probably should cross-post) that it was impossible for babies and small children to knock over a bike when it is clamped in the stand.  Yes, bigger footprint, but no bikes have fallen on kids yet.I do have to worry about the kids getting fingers caught in moving parts though. 

BTW, I think Eloy's Performance stand is either a rip-off of the design or built by Feedback Sports.
+1 for the Park stand Jules is using.
http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/park-tool-pcs-10-home-mechanic-repair-stand

It's tall/long when folded, and at first I thought it wouldn't be worth the space it takes up, which isn't really that much.  Mine stands in a corner.  The seat post clamp accommodates my aero post and I set it up last night to switch out wheels, brake pads and then adjust the gears.  So nice to have the thing up in the air, pull the wheels off, clean the whole bike (the arm swivels so I can twist the bike upside down - I know, right?) and then click through all the gears and adjust the rear derailleur.  I rode my bike this morning with the Reynolds wheels and carbon pads, put the stand away before I went to work.  Absolutely worth it.
+1 on the stand jp mentioned. That's the one that I brought up the house during gmsr
I have the Park Tool PCS-10 and I wish it was taller (and I'm not a tall person).  If you clamp to the seatpost, the gears are down by your knees.  That's my only minus.  Other than that it's been positive.  http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-10
I had a seatpost clamp style stand for a couple of years but switched 3 years ago to the park prs-20.
Basically - when I got a frame with an aero ISP and I couldn't use my previous stand.
This thing is way easier to use. The frame is super solid sat on the BB and with the front fork clamped in.
Much easier to do things that require a lot of torque (BB fixed cups, etc).
Super easy to work on as it spins round, etc.
The only slight issue i have is that with my new bike with the rear brake under the chainstays, behind the BB, that is hard to work on.
It's not light (but they is a light alloy version). It folds up and down really easily and is small when closed and should fit under the bed (although I usually have mine open all the time as I constantly fiddling with bike thing)
I have the one Eloy has and like it. I fold it up and put it in the corner of a closet, it would also slide under a bed. I also agree with JP that it is likely built by Feedback - the tubing and height clamps are identical and well built. There are some slight differences elsewhere (mainly knobs) but the mechanics of the clamping mechanism are the same. I hadn't thought of Ian's issue with an ISP but I'd then clamp on the top tube (carefully) instead.
Thanks all for the awesome insights! 

What is your favorite digital tire pressure gauge?
I have this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OMQK6Q

It does the job and it is accurate enough. But I do not recommended it, it feels small and flimsy, doubt it'll last.

image
This happened today. The guys at the shop are pointing towards the corrosion. They're 2 years old. Nicely maintained. Ridden hard, but split duty with my other bike. What gives?


image


What is your favorite digital tire pressure gauge?
image
http://www.pricepoint.com/_productimages/350x350/245_pntpg3_0.jpg

I got this one a few years ago because it was the cheapest I could find.  It has worked well, though I've mostly used it for road tires. 

I like the look, function, and size of Eloy's, but I agree that it seems a bit delicate.  Not sure if it is though.


vlad said:
This happened today. The guys at the shop are pointing towards the corrosion. They're 2 years old. Nicely maintained. Ridden hard, but split duty with my other bike. What gives?


image
New to me.  Never seen that failure before.  Have you Googled it?

I came across this discussion.  Seems to have some good advice for analyzing the failure.
http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=40469

And send it to this guy http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/000.html

Hope you weren't injured.  When did it fail?
I was not injured. It happened on the tail end of the regular ride out to Piermont. One that featured the full Alpine hill, state line sprint, and bump before Strictly sprint. I've had no issues with these cranks at any point whatsoever. They failed as I was clipping in after waiting at a stop light. I was able to keep it up while scrambling across 6th ave. The drive side fell off the bike and the non-drive stayed attached to my cleat. They're at Ride right now. We'll see what Shimano has to say. I hope that the Stages is ok. The bottom of that crank got pretty scraped.

According to that Stages, I was putting out 0 Watts when it snapped.
That's a warranty if I ever saw one.

$10 says those cheeky Japanese give you a new one.  Some dude will fall on his sword for this.  If anything, Shimano are absolute aluminum ninjas, they'll lose sleep over that one.  
...quite proud of the amount of Japanese inferences.  Notwithstanding the word 'Japanese'.
Adam said:
That's a warranty if I ever saw one.

$10 says those cheeky Japanese give you a new one.  Some dude will fall on his sword for this.  If anything, Shimano are absolute aluminum ninjas, they'll lose sleep over that one.  
I'll take that wager.

I say they won't. It's more than a year old and they're going to blame the user.

I don't see them losing sleep, either.  They've probably seen this way more often than we think.
Post a picture to our feeds and they will replace it quickly.  That's the kind of publicity no manufacturer wants.  Make sure you get a picture from the front with the Shimano logo.  

There are many different types of warranty, not all of which expire after two years from the date of purchase.  Warranties are, more or less, that collection of promises that a manufacturer makes to the end-user.  A particular warranty is a promise from them to you.  Everything you buy has multiple warranties.  Some are implied by law and not made by the manufacturer.  Some of the "warranty" paperwork you read is the manufacturer attempting to disclaim the promises that the law implies.  

Many warranties have nothing to do with how many years have elapsed since you bought it.  For example, the law implies a warranty of fitness for a particular purpose: every product you buy will be fit for the particular purpose it's designed to serve.  If it snaps in half while serving that purpose, they've breached their warranty that it will serve that particular purpose.

Contact L&C if you don't get a free crank.  Shimano is a big company but they only succeed because everyone agrees their products don't spontaneously snap in half.  Don't pay to replace that crank.  That would be a real tragedy.
Looking tru old bits..., found a mavic open pro rim and an ultegra rear hub. 

Can anyone recommend a good shop or person to lace them together, in the city?

Or if you want to take it on, I'll pay you.

Hoping to have it done by Thursday, will use as a spare for cross.

thanks!
Greg at 718 Cyclery if you can catch him.  He is somewhat of a sporadic shop presence, but he builds solid, tough wheels - ask for and talk to him specifically to build the wheels, the other guys don't do nearly a good job (about on par with any random shop).
Exploded crank update:

Early word from Ride is that Shimano will be sending me new cranks and stages arm. They get to keep the busted ones.

I'll take it.
That'll be $10 JP, thank you.
More tubular tire woes. So I'm going to reglue my rollled Challenge grifo, and I notice that similar to my clincher, the treads' edge on one section has come off. Also, I notice that the "tan" sidewall section around there, seems to be more white than tan.

I called worldclass cycles about a possible warranty replacement, and the dude was like, "well we've never had any problems, and Challenge is reluctant to warranty their tires, but if you want to send it back to us..."

His attitude combined with the thought that perhaps in the 20 or so meters that I continued to ride the rolled tire, rubbing against my frame, I actually wore the sidewall down and contributed to the peeling of the tread off, makes me think, maybe I should just say fuck it. And buy a new tubular and forget trying to warranty it.

Related, it seems foolish to attempt to glue this compromised tubular back on the rim, right?

What say you?
Adam said:
That'll be $10 JP, thank you.
Sure thing.  I brought it to the club championships on sunday.